|881 page views|
BETA PHOTO: The view from US Hwy 6.
This is a scruffy multi-pitch trad climb in Clear Creek canyon. Unfortunately, it is not great, not even good. It lies on the SW face of The Red Slab (aka Rainbow Wall per P. Hubbel). Colorado Crags by P. Hubbel, p. 147 has an topo of a bit of this climb. When driving down the canyon, it catches the eye of a trad climber with a moderate-sized face. This is the worse of the two on this face; Fun 'n Games, is a much better. This route is loose, grungy, and even slimy when wet (P2). The finish of P2 can be scary with a large boulder perched precariously at its top. This first two pitches of this face stay shady until afternoon; however, P3 & P4 bask in sun earlier.
Approach this as for the Red Slab, parking South of US Hwy 6 just East of the bridge below The Little Eiger. I prefer the lower traverse that starts below the level of the road. Arrive below the Red Slab via the obvious trail, continue West past this on a still obvious trail. The final bit is talus-covered. The start is likely share with Fun 'n Games.
P1. Follow a sort-of-crack angling left through a bush to the left side of the obvious prow/bulge to an area with solid footholds but loose rock on the right, 5.7, 170 feet. There appears to be a sling rap in the loose gully to the left.
P2. Continue up along the large, left-facing dihedral. There is less of a crack here than it appears from the ground. Near the top, the terrain gets looser & grungier. If wet, it is quite slimy & intimidating. A #4 Camalot is nice just below the crux. A #2 Camalot protects your 2nd once you pass the crux. Belay on a large ledge. 5.8 PG-13, 100 feet.
P3. Go up a block finishing on a nice arÍte, 5.5, 40 feet.
P4. Move the belay about 140 feet to the left side of a large dead tree below the summit block. Fire up the shallow, right-facing dihedral/crack to the left of the dead tree. This is nice. 5.7, 40 feet.
Hike off to the far left probably 300m and angle back to the base on mostly loose, hiking terrain.
60m rope, light rack to #4 Camalot.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 11, 2013
Didn't remember the beta so didn't follow the line for P2 and 3. Plus the dihedral on P2 was wet and seeping. Anchored P1 on the big ledge at about 100'. Ran up and left to the far left side of the roof, went around left and then back right above the roof and scrambled to the lower summit, about 200' for this pitch. For P3 (original P4) we went up the arete on the left side of the wall.
Fun route with the occasional loose block but not too loose, no harder that 5.7 (probably only 5.6) the way we climbed it.
This route had a real adventure feel to it; the rock is covered in lichen (but there are solid footholds all the way up) with no signs of climbing making it feel like you're doing an FA.