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7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
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Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 

The Cormier-Magness Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: FRA: Paul Cormier, Chris Magness. 8/31/12 ground-up, swapping leads
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,322
Submitted By: chris magness on Sep 2, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Improved topo.

Description 

A good deal of variety for the slabs with fun climbing on every pitch.

1) scramble to the pine tree at the end of the first pitch of Beginner’s Route.

2) “The Wheat Thin Arete” 5.6, 190’. Step right of the tree 10’ and head up toward a bolt. Climb past a horizontal to join a thin flake. Follow the flake to an arête on the right, passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

3) “The Cajun Washboard” 5.6, 170’. Straight up off the belay through some bulgy areas passing one bolt to a steeper wall. Move up and right passing 2 more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

4) “The Open Book” 5.6, 200’. Climb a bulge off the belay into an open book. Pass one bolt before reaching the top of the book. Protect and climb rightward through a green licheny area. Climb a short flake and hand crack up to a tree with a blue tat anchor.

5) “The Northwest Passage” 5.5, 60’. Step up and left off the belay into a giant, steep flake. Trend up back right above the flake passing a small tree to a larger tree below a bulge with a horizontal.

6) “The Low Beer Light Pitch” 5.4, 180’. Use the horizontal to clear the bulge. Trend slightly rightward avoiding a dirty water groove to the left. Step back left to a tree belay.

7) “The Platinum Slab” 5.5, 190’. Follow a bulgy groove to an old ¼ bolt bolt and a new 3/8 bolt. Trend up and left passing a faint dike aiming for a white slab and another bolt. Belay at pine tree.

8) “The Top Out Pitch” 5.3, 60’. Climb easy rock straight up to the top.

Pitches 1-4 have fixed rappel stations and are set for rappel with two 60 M ropes. The upper pitches wander through Beginner's Easy terrain and there are trees with tat but it's best to top out after the 4th pitch. Lead with a 60, anything shorter and you’re hosed.



Location 

This route follows a line between Beginner’s Route and Beginner’s Easy and is a straight shot up to the head wall area before it veers to the right. An obvious arete 30' right of Beginner's marks the line.

Protection 

The protection is generally good although there are a few typical Whitehorse runouts. Carry a standard Whitehorse rack to a #2 Camalot.


Photos of The Cormier-Magness Route Slideshow Add Photo
John Garlough on the Open Book pitch
John Garlough on the Open Book pitch
Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6
Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6
The Platinum Slab
The Platinum Slab
The Cajun Washboard.  Dave Lottman photo.
The Cajun Washboard. Dave Lottman photo.
The Wheat Thin Arete.  Dave Lottman photo.
The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.
history lesson
history lesson

Comments on The Cormier-Magness Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 16, 2014
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Sweet deal Chris I'm excited to get on this.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 4, 2012

You named every pitch...really...

jk, great job buddy.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 4, 2012

Just like El Cap
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 6, 2012

ha, exactly john. My comment to him last night, was i thought most el cap routes had less named pitches. Still, great job guys finding a nearly indpendent line on the slabs put up in great style. Had a few repeats and sounds great.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 6, 2012

if you look in the new guide, the P2 arete shows perfect. Base and I looked one time and he thought that you could die fallinginto the gulley
By chris magness
Sep 7, 2012

It is an awesome feature..
By Bob A
Sep 16, 2012

That second pitch (Wheat Thin Arete) was my favorite.The third is great too.Really fun!
By jimmi jazz
From: new durham nh
Sep 16, 2012

Did it today, well worth it. Nice job guys.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I have to agree with Bob the second pitch is phenomenal. its the best route for a beginner's on the slabs.
By chinos
Sep 18, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A great addition to the slabs. Thanks for adding it guys!
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Sep 24, 2012

Just did this also and really think it is of good quality. Nicely bolted to keep it safe but still in keeping with Whitehorse slab runouts. The Wheat Thin Arete pitch is stellar.

The Sea of Green lichen on Pitch 4 was completely wet so I downclimbed and went up and around it to the left. Never finished the upper pitches, (believe the 1st 4 pitches are really the best climbing). Met Chris Magness enroute - he says they still want to get that lichen cleaned up a bit more to make it better. Nice job though!
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
May 8, 2013

Finally got back on this. Its a toss up which pitch i liked better, either the flake or the washboard. Leading the washboard pitch as awesome; We got lost on the 4th pitch, as we didnt know where it went. We went left after the bolt then up a little head wall. Then saw the anchor and traversed into it. Awesome fun. Also, that little traverse across the dirty spot on pitch 3 got my attention.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 29, 2013

How long a rope do you need to do this route? (I see that pitch four is 200' long.) The bolts on this route are sweet! Very un-Whitehorse (not rusted, the bolt hangers don't spin).
By chris magness
Sep 1, 2013

One 60 to top out, two to rap.
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 21, 2013

did this route by accident mainly because it looked good. especially liked leading the cajun washboard pitch. the corner up higher to the right is fun also. first time climbing the slab at whitehorse and it did not disappoint.
By T. Moon
Oct 12, 2013

Wow - what a fun climb. I finally had the opportunity to climb it today. A very nice addition to the Slabs. The Wheat Thin Arete was my favorite pitch.
By Robert Hall
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

I did this a couple of times last year (2013) and it is very nice.
Pitch 4 can easily be broken up by establishing a belay in the trees right of the green lichen and then doing the crack pitch as a short pitch.
The top pitches we didn't find the exact line described ( and hence didn't find the bolts either) but we were doing it without the route description.
By TDoyle
From: Milford, MA
Jun 2, 2014

what a fantastic route! fun climbing on every pitch and some good run-outs. if you have no one behind you, great weather, and are in no rush, the belay ledge atop the "open book" pitch is a nice spot to relax and have lunch. the "low beer light pitch" and the "platinum slab" were probably my favorite 2 pitches.
By Madeline
From: Cambridge, MA
Aug 19, 2014

this is a true classic.
By ben smith
Sep 16, 2014

the rock quality on the last two pitches are as good as it gets! makes you wonder what the rock was like 50+ years ago(perhaps not as polished). not too keen on the "northwest passage" pitch or its pin, but it gets you where you want to be.