The Coriolis Effect
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 17 pitches, 1900', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Tate Shepherd, Shawn Wright, Rhane Pfeiffer, Evan Belknap—February 2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||867|
|Submitted By: ||Evan Belknap on Sep 4, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Wild man Rhane near the top.
The Coreolis Effect is basically an elaborate variation to the Doppler Effect; it borrows four of the sixteen pitches from the first ascent route of the wall (The Doppler Effect), and otherwise weaves back and forth with TDE like a helix all the way up the beautiful Northwest Arete of Pared del Tiempo in the Anfiteatro. It features gorgeous face and crack climbing for 1900 ft. on perfect and as-clean-as-we-could-make-it granite, and is well-protected throughout.
The route goes at mostly 5.10+, with one beautiful pitch of 5.11a (a long (and hard) overhanging finger, hand, and finally, offwidth crack), and a crux 5.11 b/c pitch through some horribly thin face moves (two bolts) to a sharp hand crack through a roof. The cruxes can be avoided by following variations of TDE.
The route is as aesthetic and exposed as you can ever hope to get, often with condors watching on, and ends on top of one of the most spectacular summits I ever hope to achieve.
1. Climb face until left-trending ramp, which leads to belay. 5.10a. 35m.
2. Move left off belay. Look for a jug above the bolt to pull a bouldery move over the roof. Follow cracks to top. Belay off gear. 5.10a. 35m.
3. 4th/5th-class climbing up and right through ledges and vegetation. Continue past the 11b corner of the Doppler Effect. Follow cairns until you reach the bolted arete. 60m.
4. 8 bolts. Climb the well-bolted arete. Belay from one bolt and gear. 5.10c.. 35m.
5. Choose easiest path upward. Move left of big roof. Belay from the big ledge. 5.8. 50m.
6. gear, maybe a 4 camalot, not necessary though. Follow ledge system until splitter wide crack. Climb this. Belay at the base of a steep crack on the right side of the aręte. 5.9. 45m.
7. Climb the steep crack. Reach ledge and belay from two bolts. 5.11a. 50m.
8. Two options: 1. 5.11b/c—Move belay far left, away from ledge until you are at the base of the 2 bolt move that pulls through thin face moves and into a crack, through a small roof, and to a sharp, splitter, thin hand crack. OR 2. 5.10a—climb the arete, following bolts and reach a 2 bolt anchor. 35 m.
9. Follow ramp up and left. Belay from jumble of boulders. 5th class.
10 Climb easy arete to top of ledge. 5.7. 25m.
11. Traverse easy ledge. 4th
12. Climb the bulges of the arete. Extend all gear. Pass a bolt and move right into a large right-facing "V Slot" corner. Belay on gear at top of corner. 5.9. 50m.
13. Traverse pitch. Traverse left across ramp. Downclimb into system of ski tracks. Traverse past these and pass a bolt with a left carabiner. Downclimb this or lower into the corner with a big ledge at base. Belay off gear. 5.7. 40m.
14/15 Bomber hanging gear belay midway. Climb 5.8 corner. Pull through roof crack to splitters. follow crack until bolt off right. Follow bolts (all placed on lead with sky-hooks). Pass a ramp and look for gear on the face to avoid the crappy chimney. Bolt for the final tricky face move. Belay from fixed slings around big horn at top of ledge. 10a. 68m.
16 Traverse across ramp, clip and extend the hidden bolt. Place gear on the flake of arete and continue straight up, doing a tricky mantle move at bolt. Move left and then straight up across really cool (and absolutely unprotected) pocketed slab climbing to finish climb. 5.9. 55m.
17. To Summit—rope up for short, easy 5th class climbing, maybe 5.6 (or not). Then 10 minutes, scrambling, to the INCREDIBLE summit.
DESCENT: Rappel the route with double ropes to the top of the 6th pitch. Then walk off to the south, defending fixed lines to the long scree gully. Descend the gully. Be careful with loose rocks!
See pitch-by-pitch description, accent trail, and descent information in the refugio.
Double rack to threes. I don't remember placing anything bigger. Anchors are either bolted or easy to build. Optional 4 for the 6th pitch.
|Comments on The Coriolis Effect
|By Chris Kalman|
Sep 6, 2013
The Coriolis Effect is a great addition to the Pared del Tiempo. It should be noted that a combination of pitches from The Doppler Effect and the Coriolis Effect can yield a fantastic day that clocks in at no harder than 5.10 C1. For specific beta about that, inquire in the refugio, or PM Evan and myself.