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The Cookie Cliff
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Mammut Twilight Dry Climbing Rope - 7.5mm

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Black Diamond Stubby Haul Bag

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Grivel Air TechAir Tech Light Antibott Plate

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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock 
America's Cup 
Anathema 
Beverly's Tower 
Butterballs 
Butterfingers 
Catchy 
Catchy Corner 
Cleft, The 
Cookie Left Side 
Cookie Monster 
Cookie-Center, The 
Cookie-Right, The 
Crack-a-Go-Go 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The 
Enema, The 
Enigma, The 
Hardd 
Meat Grinder 
Outer Limits 
Pringles 
Red Zinger 
Stigma, The 
Twilight Zone 
Twinkie 
Vendetta 
Waverly Wafer 
Wheat Thin 


Browse this area on a map

The Cookie Cliff 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 37.7184, -119.7187 Map
Page Views: 87,638. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 23, 2006

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>


Werner Braun on "Meat Grinder".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

The Cookie is a classic Yosemite crack area. It contains some of the world's best crack climbs.
"Outer Limits", "Meat Grinder", "Red Zinger", "Butterfingers", "Wheat Thin", "Waverly Wafer" and "Crack-A-Go-Go" are a few of the classics found in this area.


Getting There 

This cliff is about 1/2 mile down the canyon from the Cascade Creek bridge.
Park in a pullout on the river side of the road. The approach is obvious.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Cookie Cliff:
The Elevator Shaft   5.8 R     Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet   
The Cookie-Right   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 170 feet   
Beverly's Tower   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Anathema   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Meat Grinder   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   
Vendetta   5.10b     Trad, 5 pitches, 350 feet   
Wheat Thin   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Outer Limits   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet   
Waverly Wafer   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   
Twilight Zone   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Catchy   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Catchy Corner   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Butterfingers   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Hardd   5.11b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
The Enema   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Butterballs   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Pringles   5.11c PG13     Sport, 75 feet   
Crack-a-Go-Go   5.11c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet   
Red Zinger   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Cookie Monster   5.13b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Cookie Cliff

Featured Route For The Cookie Cliff
Doing it on gear is the way to go and it isnt runout at all

Cookie Monster 5.13b  CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : The Cookie Cliff
Once a sketchy 5.13 gear-tinkering single-pitch pumpfest, now a fully bolted 2 pitch sport route...Like so many older routes (Heinous Cling at Smith Rock comes to mind) that were mixed gear and bolts, the Cookie Monster is now a clip up.Rarely done, the continuous and steep "second" (5.13) pitch of black rock, golden knobs and tiny, sharp crimps looms above the overhanging crescent-like seam of the fun and very chalked first pitch. Getting to the popular 5.12- "first" pitch anchor is an increasi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of The Cookie Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Poison Oak is very common in the Lower Merced Canyon. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

BETA PHOTO: Poison Oak is very common in the Lower Merced Cany...

Merced River below the Cookie and Elephant Rock. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Merced River below the Cookie and Elephant Rock.
P...

Looking at the cookie

Looking at the cookie

Merced in the spring. Just below The Cookie Cliff.

Merced in the spring. Just below The Cookie Cliff.

John Bacher, 1985.

John Bacher, 1985.

The Cookie from the road

The Cookie from the road


Comments on The Cookie Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 23, 2010

They say Hawaii is a winter wonderland. I don't think they have ever been to the Cookie!

By Stefano Prezioso
From: Detroit, MI
Jun 3, 2012

If someone has all the relevant information, adding Stigma (the 5.13 seam where the approach trail meets the wall) would be great. I just aided it today for practice and was surprised to see that it was missing from MP. I just don't know all the information to do a good job of adding the route, otherwise I would myself.