The Conway Crack
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On start of the left wall of the approach gully for the 5.10 Wall is an obvious good right angling crack. Jam and undercling it until you traverse right some and up a final face to the shared anchors of the Wimpy-Ass Flake. If you don't want to lead it, you can climb the easy flake and set up a TR, but you will still need gear for directional. Some of the gear on the lower part of the crack is a little awkward to place on the lead. If you are lucky you may find a fixed nut or two.
This is a good route, but it will likely need some re-cleaning as it hasn't been climbed on in a while.
The left side of the start of the approach gully
Nuts and cams