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The Convent

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Girls Gone Wild T 
Middle Way, The T 
Renate Goes to Eleven T 
Two Hotdogs and a Hallway T 
Value of Audacity, The T 
West Face Dihedral T 
Whore House T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Convent Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: david goldstein on Apr 28, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Convent

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The northernmost member of the set of spires that runs south past Sister Superior and the Rectory to Castleton. This massive mesa, bigger than the Rectory, hosts a handful of seldom climbed, adventurous routes and a beautiful, pristine summit. As of this writing, all known routes are on its west face. As far as routes go, The Value of Audacity is reputed to be the hardest and best, Hallelujah Chimney (1970's 5.10) sports a 100' fist crack and a 200' chimney while Renate Goes to 11 is characterized by moderate, occasionally interesting climbing on rock that is loose more often than not.


Getting There 

Approach: drive up the dirt road as for Sister Superior and park along the road when below Hallelujah Chimney (you'll have just passed the North end of Parriot mesa and Crooked Arrow Spire on your right) then follow talus steeply upwards for 1100' and about 45 minutes.

There are rappel anchors on Hallelujah Chimney: 100', 190', 120'.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.6 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Convent

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Convent:
The Value of Audacity   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 450'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Convent

Featured Route For The Convent
Rock Climbing Photo: The base of VOA and the start of the crawl

Whore House 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Convent
Varied and fun climbing, needs to be cleaned up a bit. No bolts were placed.P1- Start up the twin hand cracks, climb up the corner through a number of small roofs, eventually reaching a short easy chimney leading to a huge ledge on the left. Good belay in a tips to off-fingers horizontal up and to the left. 5.9 170 ftP2- Some easy slab avoids some squeeze chimney weirdness, straight up an easy chimney to the base of a wide #6 splitter. Strenuous and steep wide crack (5.10 A0 or 5.11) leads...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Convent Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Convent mesa, as seen from the SW.
The Convent mesa, as seen from the SW.
Rock Climbing Photo: Best approach Gully
Best approach Gully

Comments on The Convent Add Comment
Show which comments
By david goldstein
Apr 29, 2003
Hallelujah Chimney is more commonly known as Salvation Chimney. It's the Harvey Carter route from the 60's.
By chris Kalous
Feb 25, 2008
Salvation Chimney: in the mid 90s, I tried this rig as the end of an enchainment of the ridge. On the first pitch, I was pulling out ring angles with my fingers. We bailed off of the second pitch- deciding that this absolutely horrible climb was ruining a day of otherwise amazing climbing. The chimney was caked with filth. One of the worst routes I've "almost" climbed in the desert.
By Scott McLeod
May 27, 2011
Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.

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