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High Wire Crag
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The Contrarian 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Chris Blackmon, Robin McBeth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,129
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 7, 2007

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1st half where the crux/bulge is.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Moderate face climbing leads to a an excellent crux bulge. We cleaned some loose rock, including one large block, but there's still a bit of suspect rock in the middle; however, the crux is on excellent stone. If nothing else, the crux bulge at the top makes a great short top-rope problem from the Deuces Wild anchor and probably had been done this way before. The entire route protects fine and makes a nice change of pace for those who, for some reason, brought a rack to this crag.


Location 

This is between Passing Lane and Deuces Wild. Start on Passing Lane, clip the first bolt, step right and face climb past a small overlap to the base of a second bulge with cool crux moves. Finish at the Deuces Wild anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack to #3 cam. Save a 1/2-inch to 3/4-inch cam to place in a slot at the top of the bulge, perfectly protecting the crux.



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