Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Roger Molina, M. Samet, R. Garibotti
Page Views: 6,087 total · 31/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Mar 26, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the route between the Manganese Direct and The Devil, up the right margin of the Earth Angel headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of The Devil, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with The Devil), then trends left into the hanging corner. Originally, there was a crux getting around the arete (going left), but the more logical sequence goes right up the nice laybacks in the corner then moves back left higher at your convenience. Mark Rolofson was nice enough to put the hanger back on the original bolt I'd drilled out right, so that you can go either way through this section.

Above the crux, you can stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block, or bear-hug along the right arete. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, which is probably much cleaner now than it was in 2007.

Location Suggest change

This is ten feet left of The Devil, Tarot Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Eight or 9 [or 10] bolts to double-bolt anchors.

Photos

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