The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness) 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Roger Molina, M. Samet, R. Garibotti |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | spring, summer, autumn |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Mar 26, 2008 |
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Closing in on the anchor! Photo by Taylor Roy.
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Description This is the route between the Fapanese Direct and The Devil, up the right margin of the Earth Angel headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of The Devil, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with The Devil), then trends left into the hanging corner, with a crux getting around the arete. You have big-air potential at the crux -- wild slap moves -- but nowhere to stop to clip. However, you can get up the Fapanese Direct pretty easily and drop a toprope, if it's getting wiggy.
Above the crux, stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, but it's very dirty over there and probably won't clean up much.
Location This is ten feet left of The Devil, Tarot Wall.
Protection Eight or 9 bolts to double-bolt anchors.
| Comments on The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness) |
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By Brent Apgar
May 4, 2008
| Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up.
BA |
By Joe Collins
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.12b/c
| The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-. |
By Top Rope Hero
From: Estes Park
Jun 19, 2012
| The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon.
But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux.
And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you brought extra arms. |
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2012
| I guess I can't give myself the true onsight, since I climbed more of the arete on the top as opposed to the lieback crack which is apparently what was intended. The bottom climbing was delicate, and pulling the roof was pretty stout. Overall, a good route, not as good as its neighbors The Devil or Fapanese Direct. The top is definitely a bit contrived given that you can stay slightly right on the arete and make the whole upper half feel pretty casual. Good route though and worth getting on.... |
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