|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Roger Molina, M. Samet, R. Garibotti|
|Season:||spring, summer, autumn|
|Submitted By:||Pinklebear on Mar 26, 2008|
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|Comments on The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness)||Add Comment|
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By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
May 4, 2008
Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up.
By Joe Collins
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
|The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-.|
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jun 19, 2012
The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon.
But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux.
And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you brought extra arms.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2012
|I guess I can't give myself the true onsight, since I climbed more of the arete on the top as opposed to the lieback crack which is apparently what was intended. The bottom climbing was delicate, and pulling the roof was pretty stout. Overall, a good route, not as good as its neighbors The Devil or Fapanese Direct. The top is definitely a bit contrived given that you can stay slightly right on the arete and make the whole upper half feel pretty casual. Good route though and worth getting on....|
By Peter J. Beyel
From: Glenwood Springs
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
|Wonderful line. Agree with the above posters that the traverse at bolt 5 is the crux.|