Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Outer Outlet
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Certain Shade of Green S 
Barry McCochiner's Crack T 
Conn Diagonal T 
Conn Diagonal Variation, The T 
Gun Has No Trigger T 
I Want Out T 
Iron Lingerie S 
Jugs T 
Living @ 1% T 
Nick of Time T 
Rain Man S 
Stainless Steel Shield  T 
True to Form T 
West Buttress T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Conn Diagonal Variation 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 685
Submitted By: jon jugenheimer on Sep 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


This route starts in the chimney to the left of the face that the original route starts on. Start in the chimney with two variations. (1) climb up the chimney and through to the south side of the outer outlet. Turn the corner and climb an offwidth chimney or a chimney with a layback crack in the left wall to get below a chockstone. Go under the chockstone through a "worm hole" like found on spire 4, but much bigger. Belay from the ledge 5 meters above the stone. (2) From the ground, climb up the chimney and head slightly right to gain the top ledges of the chimney on the right. Belay from here.
Pitch two starts with a Traverse right around the corner (exposure starts) to gain the entire Conn traverse ledge. This is the crux of the route. Gain the ledge and "climb" to the two bolt belay that it the top of pitch one of the original route. Expect some rope drag and one suspect fixed wire on the pitch. Climb pitch two of the original route as pitch three of the variation. You can make it to 5 meters below the top of the outer outlet with a 60M rope from the two bolt belay, even climbing the 5.8 hand crack on the right wall of the third pitch of the original route, to make a really good finish!


Start in the chimney left and downhill 30 meters from the start of the original route.


Rack to a #4 C4. no doubles needed. Bring long slings for pitch three, and a long sleeve shirt and pants for pitch two!

Comments on The Conn Diagonal Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Emery
From: Black Hills, SD
Aug 31, 2015

Two ropes were found on the summit of Conn Diagonal. For others new to the area, the two bolt hangers that you see after the finger crack that i believe is 5.8 are not rappel anchors. There are nice rap anchors after doing a little step across on the summit. I would not recommend putting ropes through the hangers!!! If these are your ropes please contact me at 6059399698 by text to identify them.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!