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A techie slab to the left of Lord of the Flies. Perform a series of off-balance moves up and right to a bizarre, high-tension lunge to a flat edge at the top of LOTF.
There are a number of starts, none of which are easy. Without giving too much away, begin about five feet to the left of LOTF, use some slopers to gain a stance, then proceed up and right. Note: there is a shallow "dish" at the very top end of the boulder that looks like it would be the finish hold. It isn't.
Lots of pads. The crux is quite high.
|By Sean Denny|
Jan 9, 2013
I went to the mouth today, for the first time in years, with intent of doing this particular problem. I saw the picture and was inspired. However, once I got to the base, I completely forgot what the picture showed Andy doing, so I set about figuring how to get to the shelf starting a few feet left of LOTF.
I ended up selecting a compression start using a left hand sloper in a water runnel, and a right hand crimp. I pretty much started directly above the two huecos at shin height. After about an hour, I figured out a method that involved some full extension moves, as well as a double gaston. I rested, got psyched, and took it to the top.
Now that I have seen the picture, I realize that Andy likely started about 4 feet left of where I did, and his crux was completely different from mine.
Long story short: I think I did a different boulder problem. But it certainly didn't matter while I was going at it. I took some ambiguous beta, and found a route that fit. That was the most fun I've had outside in weeks.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 10, 2013
Nice work, Sean. Great face, with lots of subtle solutions. I started exactly as you did, moved slightly up left and then I moved up and right (crux). See where my left hand is in the picture? That's where I got my feet set up, then executed the move up and right to the big "ledge" on LOTF. That was the crux. It sounds like you took more of a direct approach. We tried both ways, and thought my way was fun, since you do this crazy barn-door move.
Totally rad boulder. Glad you had fun!