Login with Facebook
The Complex

Select Route:
High Tide 
It's Oral Over 
Sand Stone Sur fin 
Scientists, The 
Wanderer, The 
Mountain Project has launched a new site: Powder Project, and we're giving away loads of gear, including skis & Oakley goggles. Check it out!

The Complex  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 6,621
Administrators: Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Mar 5, 2009
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!


A small collection of boulders nestled between two prominent cliffs in the "crotch" of twin valley lake. Some classic lines, some only ok. Nice views from the ridge. The bluffs are easily visible from the far east end of twin valley campground.

There is another smaller boulder just south (50ft) with 3 potentially good lines on it. They look fun.

Getting There 

Due east of Twin Valley Campground you can easily see two large rock outcroppings. The boulders are right on the hillside right between these.

Park at campsite 271 in the twin valley campground. Hike 50 paces down the wide trail and you should see a small foot path on the right. Take this footpath down the bluff until you hit the horse trail (5min). Take the horse trail left. This trail splits quickly, take the right path (past a wooden bench). At the next intersection take the right path again. Follow this trail for about 50 feet. When the 4ft burm on the left gets to ground level walk into the woods toward the bluff. The boulders are a very short distance off the trail.

For those who can't follow directions (those who cant find the ABC boulder:) See the obvious bluffs described earlier, aim right between them, and walk straight through the woods until you hit the boulders.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.2 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Complex:
Sand Stone Sur fin   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   
The Scientists   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 15'   
It's Oral Over   V6- 7A     Boulder, 15'   
Browse More Classics in The Complex

Featured Route For The Complex
The early crux.

It's Oral Over V6- 7A  WI : Governor Dodge State Park : The Complex
Thin! Stand start and move up a series of small/sharpish pinches. Bump to a good pinch just off the right arete, and move left onto more thin bad holds. Either make a final deadpoint to a minipocket out left, or dyno for the huge jug at the top. Super fun route! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of The Complex Slideshow Add Photo
Tall faces on the cliff above the boulders.
Tall faces on the cliff above the boulders.
X marks the spot.  From this PDF: dnr.wi.gov/org/l...
BETA PHOTO: X marks the spot. From this PDF: dnr.wi.gov/org/l...

Comments on The Complex Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Mar 5, 2009
Take the ratings with a grain of salt. Believe it or not, it was hot and humid today and the rock was perspiring soo.......
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 6, 2009
And so it begins.... psyched
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Mar 6, 2009
Nice job Travis. When did you guys climb these? Yesterday?
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 6, 2009
Nice work Trav!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 26, 2009
I hiked around the whole bluff, and the rock was either too small or big and chossy. Could be a few other lines in there but would need some work. Well worth the hike in to check it out, the established problems are great. Beware, the deer ticks are out and thirsty.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!