The Commons Rock Climbing
A shady, steep, but not-quite-vertical section of dark gray limestone, with routes that are quite different in character from most in American Fork
(similar, however, to some lines in Tank Canyon
The climbing is characterized by small technical holds and slippery rock rather than by the more common AF pockets and jugs.
There are three bolted lines on the wall, .11b, .11a, and .11b (left-to-right).
First, ignore the directions in the Ruckman
guide. There is now an easier way than "scrambling up dirt and talus."
Park as for The Membrane
about 1 mile past the National Monument visitors center. See the parking area here.
Cross the river (on a log with an overhead guide rope) and turn left on the trail (crossing a few timber steps).
Follow the trail as it meanders through the woods and heads downhill a little. A short wall will appear directly in front of you, with a shallow cave to your right. Follow the trail (it is slightly indistinct at this point) left around the point of the wall and then head uphill on a steep, but well-built trail.
After steep switch backing for a while, followed by a slight downhill section as you cross a hanging gully, then up again and you arrive at the first obvious climbing area: Bingo Baby
Once at Bingo Baby
, head left along the base of the wall and follow the trail past the left end of the wall for another 30 seconds or so. The Commons
will be on your right.
Climbing Season For the American Fork Canyon area.
Weather station 1.7 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Commons
Wasatch Pickles 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : The Commons
Technical meandering up a limestone slab, using mostly positive edges down low, switching to slopey feet and annoyingly deceptive pockets up high.The holds wander a bit back and forth across the bolt line. If you're shorter, a reachy, mantel-esque move awaits near the middle.The bit from the last bolt to the chains is rather attention-focusing.All-in-all, a fun route that is, in the Ruckman's words, "out of character for American Fork."...[more] Browse More Classics in UT