The Commanche  5.5 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 400 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  unknown Season:  Cooler in the morning, but anytime. Submitted By:  Jon Wood on May 16, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Water Streak in the background, 'The Commanche'

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This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>> Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>> Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Take the trail from Sunset to the Pear and Apple boulder field. Hop a few boulders to the west side of the field. Follow the trail south a bit, take the side trail that heads under the boulder field. Follow the cave system to the east making your way to the top of the boulders and up to the walls below Pear and Apple. I'm sure there's an easier way to get to this climb, but this way is soooo much more fun. Follow the low angle water streak up to a bowled out area, continue up right and follow the natural moves. We did this route free-solo barefoot. The route is solid but leaves you feeling very exposed. Most of the climb is a scramble, but there are a few moves that felt like a 5.6 and one at the top that almost felt like a 5.7, but probably only felt that way because we had no shoes and it had just rained an hour before.

Location 

Low angle water streak North of Pear and Apple

Protection 

I'm sure there's some spots for a piece or two, but you won't need it. This route is a great solo.

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Tanner on the Commanche

Tanner on the Commanche