This popular wall is located in the heart of Eugene minutes from the local climbing gym, the Nike shop, and downtown pubs and restuarants. Despite its small size it has a great concentration of cracks. The basalt columns are all trad and TR lines that have many nice bolted anchors at top.
The Columns get afternoon to evening sun and can be crowded with the afterwork crowds. It is a great place to practice crack technique and leading. The routes range from 5.6 to 5.11 but the locals will tell you about the "off" holds to make the climbs more challenging.
While the rock here is generally solid occasionally a piece will break off. A few years back the large block came off the top. As a result the right half of the crag has detestable chainlink fence over it. Luckily the best climbs remain open.
Getting There
Located in Downtown Eugene at 2nd and Lincoln. The approach is 30sec from your car.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Columns:
This is a pretty good climb. Definately worth doing if you're at "The Columns." Climb the chimney by stemming the entire way up (requires a little more strength), or use a combination of face climbing and crack skills. Crux is near the top, maybe 3/4 of the way up. Gets a little wet and dirty during the rainy season, but other than that, it's usually good....[more]Browse More Classics in OR
1) There are plenty (probably too many) bolted anchors up top, and although access can be mildly sketchy it looks like all routes at the Columns can be top-roped.
2) There is an obvious sign at the parking area listing 30+ routes overlaid on a photo, with grades listed as well. Excellent resource.
2. Skinner's Butte is a Eugene city park, so alcohol is prohibited. Bike cops cruise by all the time during the summer and will hassle you and everyone else if they see any booze. Also, off leash dogs and out of control dogs are prohibited. Hours are 6am-11pm all year.
3. Routes are really close together. Most follow each crack individually, hands and feet staying in the crack. There are tons of variations and lines contrived for easier and harder climbs.
4. Most of the routes take great protection, just keep in mind that this is an old rock quarry and the rock can be suspect. More than one of the trade routes has changed drastically over the years, just look to the piles of rubble scattered around if you have any doubts about this.
5. Extending your anchor out past the edge is a great idea given the rope eating nature of these cracks. The middle buttress anchors are set well back from the edge.
6. Though the scene here is pretty honest, unattended gear looks like christmas to some of the local bums. I've never had anything stolen, but I've been cased a few times. Just keep a heads up.
Coming from a mostly Rocky Mountain granite background, should I be stocking up on tape if this place becomes my after-work crag, or is the rock friendly enough to go without?
Recently a contractor hired by the city to clean up some big rocks that had fallen decided for some reason to excavate under Outer Column. He had not been instructed to do this by the City of Eugene. Contractor reported that the Outer Column shifted about 2ft. Skinner's Butte is now closed from Left Ski Track over, pending an inspection and/or indefinitely. For more information you can contact the River House @ 541-682-5329
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