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 ADVANCED
Easy Bake Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumnal Bliss S 
Babies in the House S 
Color of Optimism, The S 
Crucial Taunt S 
Lightbulb Not Included S 
Lost in Tuff S 
Schwing! S 
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 
Stray Capacitance S 

The Color of Optimism 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jason Halladay, Fred Berman
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014

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Crimping hard on "the Piranha" hold on the lower c...

Description 

Wear your optimistic-colored clothing for this one. For me that's orange. Follow a line of three-finger pockets up to a nice flake by the second bolt. Climb hard moves well out left via the "piranha" hold to a big hole and the third clip.
Make a big span move to a sharp-edged hold out up and right, then punch it up to a nice dish and the fourth bolt. Engaging, lower-angle climbing goes up and then out right to the arÍte. Slap up the edge of the arÍte and face enjoying fine position to the anchors.

The holds through the crux by the third bolt look temporary, unfortunately. But a number of climbers have pulled really hard on them already so we're hopeful they stick around--it's a great line up a nice face.

Location 

The only line up the west-facing, streaked wall of the Easy Bake Alcove.

Protection 

9 bolts to chains with biners.


Photos of The Color of Optimism Slideshow Add Photo
Jason nearing the end of the crux sequence.
Jason nearing the end of the crux sequence.
High up on the arÍte finish. February 2014.
High up on the arÍte finish. February 2014.
Jason nearing the top of the route.
Jason nearing the top of the route.

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