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Easy Bake Alcove
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Autumnal Bliss S 
Babies in the House S 
Color of Optimism, The S 
Crucial Taunt S 
Lightbulb Not Included S 
Schwing! S 
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 
Stray Capacitance S 

The Color of Optimism 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jason Halladay, Fred Berman
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014

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Crimping hard on "the Piranha" hold on t...

Description 

Wear your optimistic-colored clothing for this one. For me that's orange. Follow a line of three-finger pockets up to a nice flake by the second bolt. Climb hard moves well out left via the "piranha" hold to a big hole and the third clip.
Make a big span move to a sharp-edged hold out up and right, then punch it up to a nice dish and the fourth bolt. Engaging, lower-angle climbing goes up and then out right to the arête. Slap up the edge of the arête through one more surprisingly tricky section enjoying the fine, airy position to the anchors.

The holds through the crux by the third bolt look temporary, unfortunately. However, a number of climbers have pulled really hard on them already so we're hopeful they stick around--it's a great line up a nice face.

Location 

The only line up the west-facing, streaked wall of the Easy Bake Alcove.

Protection 

9 bolts to chains with biners.


Photos of The Color of Optimism Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeffrey and Mike demonstrating the big span crux. ...
Jeffrey and Mike demonstrating the big span crux. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick working through the crux. February 2016.
Nick working through the crux. February 2016.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason nearing the top of the route.
Jason nearing the top of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: High up on the arête finish. February 2014.
High up on the arête finish. February 2014.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason nearing the end of the crux sequence.
Jason nearing the end of the crux sequence.

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