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 ADVANCED
The Arsenal
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Caesar 
Chain Gang, The 
Climb- A- Dime- A- Ding- Dang 
Colinator, The 
Das Fruit Machine 
Debaser 
Doctor Epic 
Dope Party 
Fresh Loaf 
Jamboree (Jam-bor-knee) 
Lolanator 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente de los Matador Pantalones 
Path, The 
Pollinator, The 
Pretty Hate Machine 
Pump-O-Rama 
Rendezspew 
Salty 
Slagissimo 
Smarmacus Maximus 
Sprayathon 
Spurt-a-tron 
Squeal Like A Pig 
Turtle Power 
Use It Or Lose It 
Vitamin D 
Vitamin H 

The Colinator 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 1,751
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Sep 11, 2006
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Colin Lantz FA The Colinator, July 1992.

Description 

Stout for the grade, and surrounded by rumors of huge dynos, this wild, and varied route perpetually gathers spiderwebs despite good rock, and fantastic movement. Composed of three boulder problems separated by "good" rests, the Colinator ascends the steepest and most intimidating section of the Arsenal. To start, meander up and left to a huge, tombstone-shaped jug, and engage the first, and hardest boulder problem- a series of small crimps ending with a desperate cross through or a shoulder wrenching dyno (V8?). Rest. Next, wrestle through a confusing jumble of crimps, slots and sidepulls to a horizontal break (V6?). Rest. Finally, commit to an insecure and funky roof sequence (V5?). Rest. Then enjoy the 12c victory march to the anchors, and take in the view!


Location 

To start this route climb up to the start of Pump-O-Rama and follow the line of bolts just to the left. A 70 meter rope is recommended to lower from the anchors.


Protection 

Quickdraws, and kneepads.



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By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Dec 9, 2009
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a

Knee pads? They didn't show up in Rifle until '94 or '95. Don't be a wuss, do it the right way.

By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 18, 2010

Holy Crap that was awesome, Colin!
Best video I've watched on Youtube in years.
Killing it in '92, so ahead of your time, man, great vision.
The park looks so quite and peaceful...must have been nice.

Thanks for posting the vid!

Ben

By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a

Not sure of the exact date of the FA, but it was sometime in late June or July of 1992. I'd definitely done it with 1 hang by mid-June, but I didn't note the actual redpoint in my journal for some reason. The 1st crux was the problem for me. I'd normally only hit the move 1 in 10 times trying while working it from a hang. The final solution for me on this move was a big wing-span, iron cross move from a really small and painfully sharp, left hand tweaker lunging to a big hold up and right. I did the move on linkage only once from the bottom and then sent the rest to the anchors. 15 bolts + 2 bolt anchor-- 78 holds/moves on my sequence.

My beta sheet for The Colinator.
My beta sheet for The Colinator.