The Coffin 

Definitely a fantastic crack... here are a couple of thoughts. You have two options for the start. Traverse in from the left, or climb the plumb line of the crack. Although the plumb line is a tiny bit more difficult, there is better protection with the plumb line. The first ten to fifteen feet are tenuous due to the semi-lack of good protection. You start the climb on a ledge/hillside which could make for an ugly tumble if you fall during those first ten feet. However, when you are standing there you can take a good look and know that after those first moves you are going to immediately come to the great protection mentioned above. This is a great 5.9 route for 5.8 leaders to attempt/climb. As stated, you can sew up this route. If you are gear happy, be sure to save some gear for the top.

The direct 5.9 start does look more aesthetic for The Coffin. However, the 5.8 piton start is pretty safe. After clipping the pin, good foot holds allow an easy traverse right where a good small cam can be placed. From here the climb is very protectable and safe. Make sure to have some gear left to protect yourself and your seconder when going left under the roof. A #1 camalot works well.

The pin on the 5.8 start probably isn't even worth clipping, but you can get a great small TCU in just before it. Definitely use a screamer on the pin if you choose to clip it.

This is my favorite pitch in LCC so far. Beautiful route!

My fave pitch as well! Super classic. I'm pretty sure this is solid 5.9... not old school 5.9 but it makes for an interesting warm-up if you are just breaking into that range of tradThe direct 5.9r start really isn't bad. You can get a piece in pretty low down and it's not as hard as the crux section midway up where it starts getting steep and you have no feet. Of course there is some deck potential so... watch out. .

A fantastic line that must be repeated and repeated. Going left at the roof is also a must-do. Don't forget to protect your second.

As far as the 5.8 beginning, if you don't have Aliens or similar small camming units, just below the pin takes two nuts (1 brass) fairly well. I equalized the nuts and felt pretty confident on those 2 pieces, and made my moves to the main crack.

I thought this would be something special, but it really wasn't. It has a weird start then the finger locks are funky and off-finger sized. Plus, the approach is fairly long by LCC standards. It looks cool and it's easy, but it's really not what it's built up to be. I will say that it gets more fun towards the top and the traverse. Sorry to rain on this parade, but I would have liked to know ahead of time that there are people out there who aren't enamored by it.

After reading the comments of "Anonymous Coward" I'm a bit surprised. Years ago I took a 5.13 sport climber up the Coffin and he didn't like it either. He tried to use opposing pressure to force his way through the crux, despite getting solid instruction on jamming. Other than that experience, AC's comments are the only negative words I've heard about the route. The Coffin would be a 3 star route if it was in the crack mecca of Yosemite Valley. Whining about the approach maybe tells the real story. Utterly fantastic this route is, don't miss it. Also, the surrounding routes above and to the side of the Coffin are all very good, most in the 3 stars range. One of the best chunks of rock in the Wasatch.

Some folks just don't like a nice granite crack climb....but if you do....this route is a GREAT, MUST DO LCC classic. aproach keeps the lighweights out but is no big deal, or for a more varied outing do Cresent/final link to the Coffin...or better yet, lead the coffin and the second pitch corner all as one! great stuff!

First of all, I wasn't whining about the approach, I just said it's long by LCC standards, which is true. Secondly, I know how to finger jam. Thirdly, you violated the only guideline to this site: don't be a jerk.

There is a second pitch, that I would not recommend. Climb the left-facing crack/seam left of the roof. Flaky rock, and two trees in the way. Also the protection isn't the greatest. There is a fun (too short) lieback section, then you turn the corner to some super easy, super flaky rock, a small varnished face and then, a set of anchors.

2 raps will get you down.

I did it to do it, but probably won't again.

Did this route yesterday and thought that it was superb! traversing the roof at the top was enlightening.

Do the right side 2nd pitch variation!!! "Long approach by LCC standards??" Huh??Hey anonymous coward.... go climb the Sail, Wheels on Fire, or Memorial Day Buttress, or heck, THE PAWN!!The Coffin does NOT have a long approach! Enjoy yourself clipping bolts at the Slips or Challenge Buttress.

This was an awsome route and should not be missed by the 5-9 leader. The 5-9 beginning is really fun and can acutally be protected really well with a blue metolis. The rest of the route has bomber pro. I did not go under the roof but it looked fun, going right is also really cool. The apporach is really not that long.

The Second pitch right side variation is a very worthwile climb with some really cool moves and great protection. Definately do this second pitch. Features really cool dihedral climbing with a variety of techniques used. Rock is very good on the right side.

The direct 5.9 start takes small nuts placed from good stances and is really safe. There's a fixed tricam on the left 5.8 start, it looks pretty old and manky now. Higher up large nuts and a couple of .5 and .75 will keep thing safe. #1 and #2 protect the top and the traverse to the right anchor for your second.
It's up there with Sasquatch as a contender for best moderate finger crack in Little, although the coffin is a bit wider with the occasional hand jam thrown in for good measure.

Tri cam has been removed

traversing left is by far more enjoyable than going right, the undercling adds a lot to the route, but use a low profile beener if your going to use the first piton on the roof as a piece of pro.

also, does any one know a guy named steve who first climbed this route in the 70's, and was making his own friends back then, tell him I found one of his alpine draws??

It was pouring rain when we started. My friend and I are beginning on trad routes so we are very scared when it comes to climbs like these. We found out our car got robbed after we finished. And, despite all of these setbacks, I still had loads of fun. This climb is so beautiful.

As Derek said, pretty new to trad. Got a handful of trad climbs under our belts, but MAN when that rain came whipping down, and my only option was to keep going up or leave 6 pieces on the wall... Not my idea of a good time.

That aside, it was great watching Derek climb before the rain started, and I can appreciate the appeal of the climb. Just don't do it in the rain!

This was the site of my first lead fall. It was a 20 footer, at the crux. I had to change my Depends after that. I love this route!! Awesome finger crack! Awesome finish--one hell of a layback!

What layback?

The layback on the main beta photo duh! ;)

You call that a layback? Learn how to jam gumby.

Exactly.

Fantastic route! I agree with Boissal that you can get a really good small stopper at a good stance on the lower 5.9 section along with a blue alien for good measure. That pin is accient and probably wouldn't hold a fall so why bother with the traverse in? Just go straight up it...and I'm not sure it's 5.9, probably more like 5.8.

I didn't place anything bigger than a .5

I didn't think the first part was run out at all. i got .5 camalot, if i remember right, in there at the beggining. Make sure to protect the second on the traverse. The girl I was with got way sketched out and took a pretty big pendulum.

I am definitely not a crack climber and find any opportunity possible to layback but even I know to stay in this crack.

Climbed this route today with my buddy. Gotta say, it was totally awesome. Did the link up from Crescent Crack, which I highly recomend for a day of fun trad climbing. I climbed off to the anchors on the right because I ran mostly out of gear, but next time I would like to go up and around the big roof and top out and go check out Bang Bang Fire Cracker on The Sail Wall.

Spring climbing is here! Just stick to the sunny walls.

Bottom seemed a little funky to protect, bring a tcu or two and small nuts. The Splitter will make your day...

Fantastic!! The start is a little heady for people breaking into the grade or maybe it's just the fall potential. I blew a piece about 20 feet up and ended up falling on a 0 TCU (holding thankfully). Some helpful beta: I thought the lower portion of the finger crack protected way better with nuts it wasn't until halfway up where I was into cam territory. Also if you are a noob like me, bring lots of .5's. I couldn't really find many places to place a .75 until the top. Now go out and do it.