The Clod Tower 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Mark Moore, Lars Holbek 1977 |
| Season: | Late Spring through Early Fall |
| Submitted By: | John Wilder on Sep 6, 2007 |
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Jon leading the crux first pitch
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Description This is a little done route that sits just left of Crimson Chrysalis. Start in the large recess just left of Crimson Chrysalis- 4th class up the gully until it makes sense to rope up.
Head up the crack above to a decent stance just below where the crack splits. The Clod Tower heads up the left hand crack system for several pitches, ultimately gaining the top of the 'Mushroom'- a large red ledge system down and left from the summit of Crimson Chrysalis.
The crack system to the right is the Disciple.
Location Start about 100' left of Crimson in an obvious recess. This route lies just right of Tiger Crack, an obvious, arching 5.12 in the recess. From the top, the best option is probably to rappel onto Crimson using 2 ropes.
Protection A good sized rack through 4", 5" optional
handcrack up close
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BETA PHOTO: overview
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| Comments on The Clod Tower |
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By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| dan macquade said that that crux pitch represents one of the best hand cracks in red rock... my man was ON POINT with that comment! what a thing of beauty, the movement and feature were both so amazing, this pitch has stuck with me all weekend with the lingering after-taste of a very fine, expensive steak.
the pitch is expensive as well, you will spend a considerable amount of energy! SO sustained and overhanging! i reached "throw up tired" about 140' up! so tired i got turned around on a 5.9 move!
. we'll have to go back a second time to finish this puppy and get pitch breakdown, length, difficulty, descent options, and gear recommendations.
our biggest mistake was not starting earlier to allow for all that adventure and we had to bail about halfway up.
this climb really lingers in my subconscious in an awesome way!... the hike, felt like we were at the base before we really started hiking.
happy climbing,
jon |
By Killing In The Name Of
Mar 26, 2012
| I feel you, Jon. I've looked at this one a dozen times, that splitter looks SWEET but not having the slightest idea what's in store above has kept me off of it. Could be epic gully hell from the looks of it, it's been tucked behind Pachyderm on my list for a long while. You should holler at me if you're into checking out Fist or Flips sometime-hear that one's MEAN... |
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