This is a little done route that sits just left of Crimson Chrysalis. Start in the large recess just left of Crimson Chrysalis- 4th class up the gully until it makes sense to rope up.
Head up the crack above to a decent stance just below where the crack splits. The Clod Tower heads up the left hand crack system for several pitches, ultimately gaining the top of the 'Mushroom'- a large red ledge system down and left from the summit of Crimson Chrysalis.
The crack system to the right is the Disciple.
Start about 100' left of Crimson in an obvious recess. This route lies just right of Tiger Crack, an obvious, arching 5.12 in the recess. From the top, the best option is probably to rappel onto Crimson using 2 ropes.
A good sized rack through 4", 5" optional
handcrack up close
BETA PHOTO: overview
|By Jon O'Brien|
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
dan macquade said that that crux pitch represents one of the best hand cracks in red rock... my man was ON POINT with that comment! what a thing of beauty, the movement and feature were both so amazing, this pitch has stuck with me all weekend with the lingering after-taste of a very fine, expensive steak.
the pitch is expensive as well, you will spend a considerable amount of energy! SO sustained and overhanging! i reached "throw up tired" about 140' up! so tired i got turned around on a 5.9 move!
. we'll have to go back a second time to finish this puppy and get pitch breakdown, length, difficulty, descent options, and gear recommendations.
our biggest mistake was not starting earlier to allow for all that adventure and we had to bail about halfway up.
this climb really lingers in my subconscious in an awesome way!... the hike, felt like we were at the base before we really started hiking.
Mar 26, 2012
I feel you, Jon. I've looked at this one a dozen times, that splitter looks SWEET but not having the slightest idea what's in store above has kept me off of it. Could be epic gully hell from the looks of it, it's been tucked behind Pachyderm on my list for a long while. You should holler at me if you're into checking out Fist or Flips sometime-hear that one's MEAN...
|By Josh Janes|
Nov 7, 2013
Here's what's in store:
Begin in the deep recess around the left side of Cloud Tower just right of the looming Tiger Crack. The easiest way to get in there (and thus avoid a small scrub oak jungle) is along the wall. Scramble and bushwhack up the steep gully in the back of the recess as far as seems prudent (we found a nice platform to set up the belay).
P1 (180-190', 5.10c): Climb up a somewhat poorly protected groove to the right of the obvious chimney and hand crack (or grovel up the chimney) and step left across the top of a flake into the bottom of the hand crack itself. Follow the beautiful crack until a ledge appears on the left wall which can be followed to a spacious belay off the tree above Tiger Crack.
P2 (170', 5.10b): Follow the lefthand crack (the main crack system now splits in two - left crack being Clod Tower the right being The Disciple) through a fun squeeze with really nice rock, pull a roof, and then belay at the mouth of a cave off overhead 1-2" gear.
P3 (160', 5.8+): Stem up the black and white corner (some softer rock but fun climbing and adequate pro) to a belay ledge piled with talus.
P4 (180', 5.10b): Climb through the chimney off the belay ledge and then pull the large roof above via a nice finger/hand crack. Continue up the steep, exposed crack which eventually opens up into a gully. Squeeze past or through a rather difficult Western Rosebud tree and belay.
P5-P6 (400'+, 5.9): Follow the gully upwards passing several 5th class sections and lots of scrambling, belaying where necessary. Eventually choose a path to gain the knife-edge saddle between the main wall to the left and the Cloud Tower summit to the right. A brief 5.2 slab section leads to the Cloud Tower summit. Rap Crimson.
1x Blue Alien (or equivalent) through #5 Camalot
2x 0.75 Camalot through #3 Camalot
A strong party could possibly get away without the #4 and #5 Camalots but they come in handy. A weaker party may want a few extra cams in the 1"-2" range since there are no fixed anchors.
I thought this route was excellent. While the first pitch is a classic, all the pitches had very fun climbing. Real adventures (not including approaches and descents) are uncommon in Red Rocks, and the minor commitment of a route that lacks fixed anchors is a nice change of pace.
|By Dan Birman|
From: Berlin, Germany
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
All the hard moves protect well, every pitch has something fantastic. We were short on time, but it looks like instead of climbing the (awful) gully it should be possible to climb the left side of a large flake up into a varnished dihedral to get to the summit of chrimson. Someone should check that out...