Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Clipboard Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chairman of the Board S 
Clipboard, The S 
Stigmata T 

The Clipboard 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron
Page Views: 2,324
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
the full view
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The "sheer bolted face" mentioned in the "Another Unknown" (actually Dominator) description is a feature called The Clipboard. This is the middle of three routes. Left is a harder clip-up, and right is a finger crack with one bolt (Stigmata).

The climbing is thin and devious, and it is a real struggle not to grovel right to the Stigmata crack. Nose to the bolts, it seems very stiff indeed. A TR can be easily set after doing Stigmata.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



Photos of The Clipboard Slideshow Add Photo
It's a slab but it's not easy!
It's a slab but it's not easy!
Trying not to use the crack for the right foot. The crux is the next few moves: Move right from here, reach left over the bulge for the thin crack, step over the bulge, reach good hold.
Trying not to use the crack for the right foot. Th...
Clipboard
BETA PHOTO: Clipboard
Marga Powell cruising up The Clipboard.  The crux is the small overlap just above her.
Marga Powell cruising up The Clipboard. The crux ...
Midway up.
Midway up.
Comments on The Clipboard Add Comment
Show which comments
By S. Kimball
Sep 26, 2002

Although a sustained climb with excellent and varied holds, it is not 5.11c, possibly 5.10+ or 5.11-. The left hand Clipboard line is closer to 5.11c.

By Chris Archer
Oct 20, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A pretty good short route, but not 11c. Significantly easier than the 11c to the right (Strange Science?)

By Craig Quincy
Dec 9, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a nice face climb, but isn't harder than 5.11a.

By Paul Hassett
From: Aurora CO
Aug 8, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Just did this route today, and have done a bunch of routes up at this crag. I am not sure if the folks claiming .11a stayed in the "Stigmata" crack for a while longer, but I tried to stay left, or true to the bolts, and found the moves quite consistent for the grade. While small holds are not really my forte, I can usually onsight this grade, and had a hard time even with the redpoint. Then again, could be a reach thing.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

11c... as in FM on the Elephant's?
Harder than Aerospace in Eldo?
Nah... 11a. It is simila to 'The Scientist' at Plotinus, a climb which I would have upgraded against consensus.

This is thin face climbing on excellent (or better) rock and if it were a full pitch long (3 times longer than it is) it would be a bona-fide classic, but as it stands it has to be listed as simply 40' of the best rock around...a measured compliment.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Sep 18, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I'd call it 11b straight up the bolt line. Great movement and exciting finish right before the mantle.

By Andrew Shoemaker
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I found this route to be much easier than Strange Science down on middle wall...even if you stay true to the bolt line. I stayed left and straight up the bolts and it felt like .11b to me.