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Trying not to use the crack for the right foot. Th...
The "sheer bolted face" mentioned in the "Another Unknown" (actually Dominator) description is a feature called The Clipboard. This is the middle of three routes. Left is a harder clip-up, and right is a finger crack with one bolt (Stigmata).
The climbing is thin and devious, and it is a real struggle not to grovel right to the Stigmata crack. Nose to the bolts, it seems very stiff indeed. A TR can be easily set after doing Stigmata.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Clipboard
Marga Powell cruising up The Clipboard. The crux ...
the full view
It's a slab but it's not easy!
|Comments on The Clipboard
|By S. Kimball|
Sep 26, 2002
Although a sustained climb with excellent and varied holds, it is not 5.11c, possibly 5.10+ or 5.11-. The left hand Clipboard line is closer to 5.11c.
|By Chris Archer|
Oct 20, 2003
A pretty good short route, but not 11c. Significantly easier than the 11c to the right (Strange Science?)
|By Craig Quincy|
Dec 9, 2003
This is a nice face climb, but isn't harder than 5.11a.
|By Paul Hassett|
Aug 8, 2004
Just did this route today, and have done a bunch of routes up at this crag. I am not sure if the folks claiming .11a stayed in the "Stigmata" crack for a while longer, but I tried to stay left, or true to the bolts, and found the moves quite consistent for the grade. While small holds are not really my forte, I can usually onsight this grade, and had a hard time even with the redpoint. Then again, could be a reach thing.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2005
11c... as in FM on the Elephant's?
Harder than Aerospace in Eldo?
Nah... 11a. It is simila to 'The Scientist' at Plotinus, a climb which I would have upgraded against consensus.
This is thin face climbing on excellent (or better) rock and if it were a full pitch long (3 times longer than it is) it would be a bona-fide classic, but as it stands it has to be listed as simply 40' of the best rock around...a measured compliment.
|By Aeon Aki|
May 11, 2007
It seems like you could cheat this route a bit by staying right, but no matter how you go, it's guaranteed to be a fun one.
|By Ben Cassedy|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 18, 2010
I'd call it 11b straight up the bolt line. Great movement and exciting finish right before the mantle.
|By Andrew Shoemaker|
From: Garden Valley, ID
Jun 17, 2011
I found this route to be much easier than Strange Science down on middle wall...even if you stay true to the bolt line. I stayed left and straight up the bolts and it felt like .11b to me.