|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|FA:||Jim Birdwell, Larry Kilmer, Mike Kilmer|
|Submitted By:||Greg Blevins on Jun 21, 2009|
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|Comments on The Cleft||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Floyd Hayes
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
|Reasonably well protected with lots of options for gear, even in the vicinity of the bolts (which didn't seem necessary). I must have missed the fixed pin. I slung the pillar just before the last 20' of runout 5.4.|
By Matt G.
Feb 6, 2012
Really easy trad route. I would agree with the 5.6 PG-13 rating, as first 15' or so are pretty much unprotected.
Past that, there are a dozen or so really good nut placements of almost any size spanning the next 50', as well as two easy to sling/cinch features.
Rope drag was kinda annoying as the bolts about 10' past the top lip, and my extenders got eaten up keeping the rope out of the crack and slinging features. If I climbed it again, I would bring some large webbing to mitigate that problem up top.
This is a great route for a first trad-lead, with lots of very forgiving placement locations. Also, a great route to teach cleaning/rappelling etc.
Nice view at the top!