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The Cleft 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jim Birdwell, Larry Kilmer, Mike Kilmer
Page Views: 580
Submitted By: Greg Blevins on Jun 21, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The Cleft

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Description 

Pretty fun chimney which goes pretty straight up then out to the left for an easy but fairly runout slab/scramble up to the top. Decent rock with the crux being getting yourself through a narrower constriction in the chimney.


Location 

Near the right hand end of Discovery Wall. Goes up the obvious chimney.


Protection 

One fixed pin and two bolts. Takes standard set of hexs and nuts for further protection. Two bolts and hangers at top.



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By Floyd Hayes
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

Reasonably well protected with lots of options for gear, even in the vicinity of the bolts (which didn't seem necessary). I must have missed the fixed pin. I slung the pillar just before the last 20' of runout 5.4.

By Matt G.
Feb 6, 2012

Really easy trad route. I would agree with the 5.6 PG-13 rating, as first 15' or so are pretty much unprotected.

Past that, there are a dozen or so really good nut placements of almost any size spanning the next 50', as well as two easy to sling/cinch features.

Rope drag was kinda annoying as the bolts about 10' past the top lip, and my extenders got eaten up keeping the rope out of the crack and slinging features. If I climbed it again, I would bring some large webbing to mitigate that problem up top.

This is a great route for a first trad-lead, with lots of very forgiving placement locations. Also, a great route to teach cleaning/rappelling etc.

Nice view at the top!