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The Citadel is the large, dome-shaped crag that sits above The Pear. It's most striking feature is a large, right-facing dihedral at two thirds height in approximately the center of the cliff. This corner is the second pitch of the crag's prize route: Heart Of Norway - 5.10c. It's a very rarely visited crag mostly because of its somewhat remote location and lack of 3-star routes, but I highly recommend the hike if only for the superb Heart Of Norway. This route crosses purely good stone although there is some decomposed rock in other areas on the cliff. Heart Of Norway ends before the summit and requires a rappel back to the base, but the other routes top out and a simple walk-off North, then East give the descent.
An excellent way to approach anything on The Citadel is to first climb a route on The Pear .If you go to the summit, rap 100 feet from the summit, off chain anchors, into a deep corridor. Scramble west, then north, then east toward the Citadel which is obvious at this point. Some low-angle slabs guard the start of most of the routes which require some 4th class scrambling to negotiate. If you do any of the routes on the right side of The Pear to approach (which don't reach the summit), scramble down and east to the easiest walk-off north, then hike northwest to the base of the slabs below the start of The Citadel routes. Finally, to approach The Citadel w/o a Pear route, hike up to The Bookend, continue beneath it and beneath Lens Rock as well, then hike up a gully on Lens Rock's west side to a west-running access ledge that takes you to the base of most of The Citadel's routes above the low-angle slabs mentioned above.
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Citadel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
Candyland 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches
Picadilly Circus 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad
Heart Of Norway 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches
Stonewalled 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Storming the Castle 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
The Eliminator 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For The Citadel
Storming the Castle 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Citadel
This is one of the best crack pitches at Lumpy and well worth the approach. It is of Cookie Cliff quality with solid gear the entire pitch. This route starts just to the left of The Eliminator and a few feet left of the classic two pitch route, Heart of Norway which makes for a great warm-up.A thin crack/face crux leads to a roof which is bypassed on the left. After this, the route backs off to a 5.10 rating for the remaining 50 feet. There is a two bolt anchor at the top of this...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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