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The Citadel

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Candyland T 
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The Citadel  

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jason seaver on Feb 24, 2002
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The Citadel is the large, dome-shaped crag that sits above The Pear. It's most striking feature is a large, right-facing dihedral at two thirds height in approximately the center of the cliff. This corner is the second pitch of the crag's prize route: Heart Of Norway - 5.10c. It's a very rarely visited crag mostly because of its somewhat remote location and lack of 3-star routes, but I highly recommend the hike if only for the superb Heart Of Norway. This route crosses purely good stone although there is some decomposed rock in other areas on the cliff. Heart Of Norway ends before the summit and requires a rappel back to the base, but the other routes top out and a simple walk-off North, then East give the descent.

Getting There 

An excellent way to approach anything on The Citadel is to first climb a route on The Pear .If you go to the summit, rap 100 feet from the summit, off chain anchors, into a deep corridor. Scramble west, then north, then east toward the Citadel which is obvious at this point. Some low-angle slabs guard the start of most of the routes which require some 4th class scrambling to negotiate. If you do any of the routes on the right side of The Pear to approach (which don't reach the summit), scramble down and east to the easiest walk-off north, then hike northwest to the base of the slabs below the start of The Citadel routes. Finally, to approach The Citadel w/o a Pear route, hike up to The Bookend, continue beneath it and beneath Lens Rock as well, then hike up a gully on Lens Rock's west side to a west-running access ledge that takes you to the base of most of The Citadel's routes above the low-angle slabs mentioned above.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.4 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
Heart Of Norway   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in The Citadel

Featured Route For The Citadel
The route from below the lower slabs.

Heart Of Norway 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CO : Lumpy Ridge : The Citadel
Look for a large, triangular roof at one third height in the center of the cliff; the first pitch begins directly beneath this. The second pitch is the unmistakable, giant, right-facing dihedral above. Fairly burly 5.10 moves pull a small roof ten feet off the ground to gain a nice crack. Follow the crack not quite all the way up to the large triangular roof and make a spicy traverse right (hardish 5.8) to the roof's right edge. Pull around into a corner and find a nice fingercrack in ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Citadel Slideshow Add Photo
Jason cleaning gear on "Sanctuary" at Th...
Jason cleaning gear on "Sanctuary" at Th...
The Citadel and The Pear.
The Citadel and The Pear.

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