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The Citadel - Winter
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By jkglenn
From Tabernash, CO
Feb 24, 2013

Hey guys! Anyone been up to check out the Citadel this year? Was considering trying this next weekend. Just curious what I'm in for. I'd like to see some pictures of what the 4th class looks like, but any info would be greatly appreciated!!


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By Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Feb 25, 2013
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag

I'm no avalanche expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I'd be concerned about the avy risk due to all the fun weather we've been having. The CAIC website puts pretty much the entire mountain region of Colorado in the "Considerable" category right now.

https://avalanche.state.co.us/index.php


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By jkglenn
From Tabernash, CO
Feb 25, 2013

Hey Rob, thanks for the concern! We were wondering more about the actual rock once we got that high. Thanks for the website, I've been keeping an eye on that.

We thought the ridge would be safe, just couldn't find that much actual information on the rock or the approach. I found a couple descriptions that are saying 4th class, but also found some info saying it was harder. Have you been there before? What's the avy terrain look like on the approach? Is there a way to skirt around on safe terrain to get on the ridge?


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By Robert Buswold
From Longmont, CO
Feb 26, 2013
Clear Creek Canyon, Capitalist Crag

Unfortunately I haven't been there, but what I've seen and heard all says 4th class (as you said). Some of the pics on MP show it's conditions in winter, but I don't have any first-hand info for you. Good luck!


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By coppolillo
Feb 26, 2013

The safest/easiest approach might be from the west side of the tunnel, tour up the drainage immediately north of Coon Hill, get on the divide and traverse that to Citadel (if i'm thinking of the right formation)...that would seem safer to me than approach from the Dry Gulch/Herman Gulch side...anyway, hope that's of some use, not sure what the "standard" approach is...good luck man!


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Feb 26, 2013
At the BRC

Did it this summer with the kids, can't comment about winter. But, the 4th class is pretty straightforward. We didn't follow the easiest line or rope up.

The Citadel
The Citadel

Another view of the Citadel
Another view of the Citadel

We climbed a diagonal line on the face directly to this (SE?) summit, but the usual route goes up a gully behind the left skyline.

NW(?) summit of the Citadel
NW(?) summit of the Citadel

This is the NW? summit, hidden in the other photo. Again, the route goes behind the left skyline.

The hardest section is a short 15 foot or so wall which leads from the top of the couloir to the SE? summit. Maybe Class 4, but a good landing.

Watch out for these dudes.
Citadel locals
Citadel locals


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By jkglenn
From Tabernash, CO
Feb 27, 2013

Hey guys, thanks!! All super helpful. I'll check out that Coon Hill approach. Going to check it out on Friday!


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