The Tombstones of Kane Springs Canyon are what trad and aid climbers dream about. The rock is high quality Navajo sandstone with a little sand at the base but from the 20 foot mark to the 365 foot mark the rock is clean and solid. The routes are mainly mixed trad and aid and hold some of the best free climbing piches in the desert. The descent routes are all good rap lines and the rock is great in the winter.Watch out for base jumpers, if they don't call the jump it sounds like a huge rockfall!!
You can't miss the Tombstones when driving into Kane Springs Canyon. The three huge stones are 50 yards off the road to your left, 1/2 mile after you cross the cattle guard at the mouth of the canyon. Park in the pulloff on the left under the Middle Tombstone. Approach via the climbers trail at the pullout. Time to the rock is about 3 minutes.
Browse More Classics in The Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone):
Deep Voodoo 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380 feet, Grade V
Playing Hooky 5.10d C2 Aid, 4 pitches, 375 feet, Grade IV
For Desert Rats Only 5.11 R Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Corner Route 5.12- Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For The Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone)
Playing Hooky 5.10d C2 UT : Moab Area : ... : The Cirque of the Climbable...
This route goes up the middle of the center tombstone. It is a super aesthetic climb (esp. P3) and has some great exposure. It can be a little noisy when all the jeeps and dirt bikes are crusin' around. This route has gone free, and there is a lot of chalk up there.Pitch 1 (5.7 or 5.10d): Two ways to go. A goofy 5.7 chimney pitch starts far to the climbers left of the P1 anchor. Begin up a sandy slot, a couple very easy stem moves puts you on a ledge, traverse a few feet right and climb up the 5...[more] Browse More Classics in UT