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Palisade Head
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Choice of a New Generation, The 
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Unsorted Routes:

The Choice of a New Generation 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Pagel
Page Views: 816
Submitted By: Travis Hibbard on Feb 16, 2007
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Description 

From RCM&W

A very thin crack that mutates into a small, right facing corner.


Protection 

I recommend a toprope but if you want to lead it you'll need thin gear.



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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 21, 2007

Onsight lead by Dave Groth. FYI

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 29, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

could anyone give a better description of this route's location?

By Darin Limvere
Nov 16, 2008

Good question. Can anyone give a better description to this route period? Let me know and I'll re-assign it to you.

By josh columb
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Aug 25, 2009

This route is maby 10 ft at the most to the north of Soli de Glori. Rotton rock at start, difficult crack climbing on an ever changing crack. Once you reach the ledge at mid hight gear becomes more suspect as the rock is more crumbly up higher. It seems that someone has cleaned it over the years allowing better and larger placements in the upper dihedral. Over all it is a good route, mostly clean and devoid of shrubs and other growth. Just some friable rock up high that maby could be cleaned.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Sep 20, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

finally climbed this. i didn't lead it, and i'm glad. that rock up high is mo' shitty. i pulled off a shoe box-sized rock right below the lip.

that said, the thing is leadable. just be careful up there...it's almost as manky as the rock at the base of wise guys.

a lead would take small cams, nothing bigger than a #1 camalot.