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Mormon Hollow
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 
14. T 
15. T 
15a. Direct start to 15 T 
Chimney, The T 
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 
Excessive Force S 
Excessive Tunnel Power S 
Original Sin T 
Power Dive S 
Priapism S 
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 
Tree Crack T 
Tunnel Vision S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The Chimney from below.

Raven Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.


There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").


There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.

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By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jun 5, 2011

After entering the chimney, it is possible to chimney straight sideways into the chasm and pop out of a hole ~20 feet from the edge. This doesn't increase the difficulty at all, and is a fun adventure. You pop out right by the central staircase, so it's convenient as well!

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