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 ADVANCED
Mormon Hollow
Select Route:
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 
14. T 
15. T 
15a. Direct start to 15 T 
Chimney, The T 
Original Sin T 
Priaprism S 
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 
Tree Crack T 

The Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 914
Submitted By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The Chimney from below.

Raven Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.

Location 

There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").

Protection 

There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.


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By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jun 5, 2011

After entering the chimney, it is possible to chimney straight sideways into the chasm and pop out of a hole ~20 feet from the edge. This doesn't increase the difficulty at all, and is a fun adventure. You pop out right by the central staircase, so it's convenient as well!