Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mormon Hollow
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1. Unnamed route (left side) S 
13. (Central Buttress Far Left Slab Route) S 
14. T 
15. T 
15a. Direct start to 15 T 
2. Unnamed route (left side) S 
8. Africa Buttress Arete S 
Arrhythmia S 
Chimney, The T 
Don't Sweat the Small Stuff S 
Excessive Force S 
Excessive Tunnel Power S 
Original Sin T 
Power Dive S 
Priapism S 
Pulchritudinous Panda T,TR 
Tree Crack T 
Tunnel Vision S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,246
Submitted By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Chimney from below.

Raven Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the tight chimney, not quite a squeeze, that is situated about 50' left of the stone staircase on the left side of Africa Buttress. Climb inside the chimney from the base or face climb the outside for the lower half, get in the belly of the beast, and shimmy and thrutch your way to the top. An unusual route for the area and a must do.

Location 

There are two large roofs at Mormon Hollow. This route climbs the wide crack on the left of the righthand roof (the "Africa Buttress").

Protection 

There is no gear for the lower half of the route. Above that a single set of cams from 0.5" - 3" will protect in horizontal cracks. The route can be top roped off of trees if the runout is intimidating.


Comments on The Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jun 5, 2011

After entering the chimney, it is possible to chimney straight sideways into the chasm and pop out of a hole ~20 feet from the edge. This doesn't increase the difficulty at all, and is a fun adventure. You pop out right by the central staircase, so it's convenient as well!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!