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|Type: ||Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a WI2 [details]|
|FA: ||W. Helburn, Chamberain, Holden, Kennedy, M. Helburn, Dow, Whipple (1923)|
|Submitted By: ||BrianWinslow on Apr 28, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: The Chimney (the huge cleft in the rock face) as s...
|Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit|
A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!
The south basin, on the left wall. The route can not be seen from Chimney Pond.
Snow gear (pickets), probably some screws (we didn't use them for lack of ice), a light rock rack (nuts and a few cams).
Myself, Mike, and Dale Starting the Chimney.
Myself and Dale on the South Basin rim after climb...
The Chimney, Pamola...Katahdin.