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Start of The Chimney.
The Chimney is generally done is two short pitches to avoid rope drag along the ledge.
P1. Climb a short, vertical flake with somewhat broken rock. At the top of the flake, climb a right leaning corner past a couple of tricky section to an arete. Follow the arete to a left-leaning ramp above and belay just above the first set of bushes.
P2. Continue up the ramp (very easy) to a nice, short corner with some chimney moves higher up. Climb the corner through the chimney moves and belay at trees on the top of the wall. The fun is over almost as soon as it begins.
To descend, walk off to the right and follow the trail that leads down to the base of the Practice Face.
This is located just before you turn the corner and scramble up the step to the main wall. Look for a vertical, left-facing flake that leads to a small slab.
Standard rack, up to medium cams.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up into the chimney of the second pitch fr...
By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Nov 12, 2009
Fun route. The climbing in the first pitch is straight forward but a little strenuous for gear placement. I especially enjoyed the chimney in the second pitch.
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A fun route, better than the blue route. Can be done in 1 pitch if you're careful with your rope.
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 6, 2014
Not a huge fan of the first pitch.... I usually start with the first pitch Outersite.
Aug 3, 2015
Great fun! Good for developing a lead head and managing rope drag. Pitch two chimney was soaked (felt harder than 5.6).
- There is a huge piece of rock that seems to have fallen off this climb or the chossy overhang to the left of it. Rock quality seemed just fine on the route however.