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 ADVANCED
Wine and Roses
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Cashew Corner T,TR 
Cheyenne T 
Chief, The T 
Fiddler on the roof T 
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Pale Face T 
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Terminator Goes to the Prom T 
Thanatos T 
What, No Rope? T 
Wine and Roses T 

The Chief 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 1,129
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

While it has its own merit, this is a rather short climb for the West Canyon area. As such it is less recommended than some others. From the stance and bolt where you rapped in, climb up and right into a finger and handcrack, continuing back up to the canyon rim. The crux is short and definite, but protected.

Location 

Perhaps 200 meters West of the Wine and Roses anchor and just past a dead-end gully descending part way into the canyon there is a huge right-facing corner. The buttress that this borders on the east is referred to as 'The Indian Head.' Rap from a bolted anchor to a stance with a bolt just down and left of a handcrack.

Protection 

A standard rack.


Comments on The Chief Add Comment
Show which comments
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2009

So short....not worth it till you do the other, longer routes.
By Jeebus
Mar 31, 2010

now has a two bolt anchor!!!!!!
By mika burns
From: laramie
Aug 21, 2011

ya 2 jankie, loose bolts.
By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Apr 3, 2013

This route is worth getting on. The top out ledge is one of my favorite belays in the canyon. The top has two nice cracks at the top to build an anchor. The bolts you see at the top are for rapping to several routes including this one, but not for the top out of the Chief. Good two bolt anchor at the bottom where crack ends. There is a hard bolted extention below (12?)