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The Chief

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Apron Boulders 
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North Walls, The 
Penthouse, The 
Prow Wall, The 
Raven's Castle, The 
Sheriff's Badge, The 
Solarium, The 
South Gully 
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Tantalus Wall 

The Chief 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,303'
Location: 49.6867, -123.135 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 701,070
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
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The Chief from the windsurfing area

Description 

The chief is the giant dome that can be seen from just about anywhere in Squamish. Routes can be incredibly varied from runout slabs to spliter cracks to bolted face climbs.


Getting There 

Take the sea to sky highway north from vancouver to the parking lot on the right side just before the town of squamish.


203 Total Routes


['4 Stars',47],['3 Stars',88],['2 Stars',35],['1 Star',27],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',11],['5.9',18],['5.10',49],['5.11',29],['5.12',19],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',30],['V2-3',13],['V4-5',13],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Chief:
Diedre   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   The Apron
Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   The Apron
St. Vitus' Dance   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   The Apron
Rock On   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Apron
Seasoned in the Sun   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Grand Wall Base Area
Arrowroot   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Grand Wall Base Area
Apron Strings   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Grand Wall Base Area
Angel's Crest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   The Sheriff's Badge
Jingus the Cat   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Grand Wall Base Area
Sunblessed   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   The Solarium
Exasperator   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Grand Wall Base Area
Cruel Shoes   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   Grand Wall Area
The Grand Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c A0     Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'   Grand Wall Area
High Plains Drifter   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   The North Walls
High Plains Drifter   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Sheriff's Badge
Freeway   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 11 pitches   The Dihedrals
Alaska Highway   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   The North Walls
The Left Side   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Grand Wall Area
University Wall   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Grand Wall Area
North Star   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The North Walls
Browse More Classics in The Chief

Featured Route For The Chief
P1, gently overhanging for 100 feet. Beauty of a pitch.

High Plains Drifter 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  North America : Canada : ... : The Sheriff's Badge
One 100 foot 11a splitter steep hand crack, a second pitch of the same steepness but off fingerish followed by a hard boulder move to the arete to finish it off 11c....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Chief Slideshow Add Photo
A stitched together panoramic of the north walls of the Chief taken from the loop trail in the Smoke Bluffs just above the far right side of Ronin's Corner. <br /> <br />Angel's Crest runs up the edge visible in the middle of the image, just left of the Sheriff's Badge.
A stitched together panoramic of the north walls o...
Looking southwest from the Center Summit of the Chief you can see the South Summit, Howe Sound and Hwy 99.
Looking southwest from the Center Summit of the Ch...
the Chief as seen from Smoke Bluffs
the Chief as seen from Smoke Bluffs
Looking north from the top of the North Gully.  Garibaldi Peak dominates the skyline.  The slabs on the right side are the "northern flanks" of the Sqaw.  They are up and left of the main climbing found on the Sqaw.  Word has it that there has been some exploration and development there lately...
BETA PHOTO: Looking north from the top of the North Gully. Ga...
This picture, taken from the side of Hwy. 99, a few hundred feet south of the main parking lot, shows most of the Chief's east facing walls.  This picture doesn't do the size of the formation justice. <br /> <br />From left to right: <br /> <br />At the far left of the photo you can just see the top of the Apron (six pitches up, to give you a sense of scale). <br /> <br />Then there's the University Wall and Grand Wall areas.  The Black Dyke is visible going through the big roofs.   <br /> <br />The Dihedrals area is the darker section in the middle. Up and right from the Dihedrals you can see the Tantalus wall. <br /> <br />Finally, the Bulletheads are on the far right.
BETA PHOTO: This picture, taken from the side of Hwy. 99, a fe...
Panoramic shot of the Chief from the top of the Malamute.  This view didn't exist until the top of Malamute was logged.  I'll post an annotated version soon.
BETA PHOTO: Panoramic shot of the Chief from the top of the Ma...
The Stawamus Chief
The Stawamus Chief
One of the sections of ladder and chains leading to the South Summit.  As a climber you aren't likely to need these, or even encounter them on a climbing day unless you climb on the Raven's Castle.  Even the routes that take you high up on the Grand Wall like The Roman Chimneys allow you to traverse off below the summit where these are encountered.  For taking non-climbers for a fun hike, however, these features give them a feel of adventure not found on most hikes.
BETA PHOTO: One of the sections of ladder and chains leading t...
Climbers on the Chief. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Climbers on the Chief.
Photo by Blitzo.
The Chief from the North (taken from hospital parking lot)
The Chief from the North (taken from hospital park...
the Chief, with Howe Sound,  from along the hike to Diamondhead
the Chief, with Howe Sound, from along the hike t...
Also from the north gully, I think.  This may be where the BASE jumpers launch from, but I'm not sure.
Also from the north gully, I think. This may be w...
Lost somewhere in the middle of the Chief
Lost somewhere in the middle of the Chief
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