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The Chief

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The Chief  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,303'
Location: 49.6867, -123.135 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 863,773
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
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The Chief from the windsurfing area

Description 

The chief is the giant dome that can be seen from just about anywhere in Squamish. Routes can be incredibly varied from runout slabs to spliter cracks to bolted face climbs.

Getting There 

Take the sea to sky highway north from vancouver to the parking lot on the right side just before the town of squamish.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

219 Total Routes

['4 Stars',50],['3 Stars',94],['2 Stars',43],['1 Star',27],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',11],['5.9',20],['5.10',53],['5.11',33],['5.12',19],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',30],['V2-3',16],['V4-5',14],['V6-7',6],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Chief:
Diedre   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   The Apron
Calculus Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   The Apron
Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   The Apron
St. Vitus' Dance   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   The Apron
Rock On   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Apron
Arrowroot   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   Grand Wall Base Area
Seasoned in the Sun   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Grand Wall Base Area
Apron Strings   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Grand Wall Base Area
Angel's Crest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   The Sheriff's Badge
Jingus the Cat   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Grand Wall Base Area
Exasperator   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Grand Wall Base Area
Sunblessed   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   The Solarium
Cruel Shoes   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   Grand Wall Area
Sunset Strip   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 12 pitches   The Dihedrals
The Grand Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0     Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'   Grand Wall Area
High Plains Drifter   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   The North Walls
Freeway   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 11 pitches   The Dihedrals
High Plains Drifter   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Sheriff's Badge
Alaska Highway   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 550'   The North Walls
University Wall   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Grand Wall Area
Browse More Classics in The Chief

Featured Route For The Chief
AR on Wild Turkey as viewed from the belay ledge.

Wild Turkey 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  North America : Canada : ... : Tantalus Wall
This is slightly left leaning shallow offwidth/flare. You end up getting good hand jams and finger locks galore all through it, which makes resting very possible anywhere, however, as there are no feet, it's a shallow, flaring and steep corner is it ends up being a total grovel fest of full body scumming, palming nothing and thrashing...pretty solid 35 meters of very sustained climbing, crux in the last 10 feet=) Once out of the flare you can head straight left on good ledge to dicey slab fini...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of The Chief Slideshow Add Photo
A stitched together panoramic of the north walls o...
A stitched together panoramic of the north walls o...
Looking southwest from the Center Summit of the Ch...
Looking southwest from the Center Summit of the Ch...
the Chief as seen from Smoke Bluffs
the Chief as seen from Smoke Bluffs
Panoramic shot of the Chief from the top of the Ma...
BETA PHOTO: Panoramic shot of the Chief from the top of the Ma...
This picture, taken from the side of Hwy. 99, a fe...
BETA PHOTO: This picture, taken from the side of Hwy. 99, a fe...
Lost somewhere in the middle of the Chief
Lost somewhere in the middle of the Chief
the Chief, with Howe Sound,  from along the hike t...
the Chief, with Howe Sound, from along the hike t...
One of the sections of ladder and chains leading t...
BETA PHOTO: One of the sections of ladder and chains leading t...
Climbers on the Chief. Photo by Blitzo.
Climbers on the Chief. Photo by Blitzo.
The Chief from the North (taken from hospital park...
The Chief from the North (taken from hospital park...
Also from the north gully, I think.  This may be w...
Also from the north gully, I think. This may be w...
The Stawamus Chief
The Stawamus Chief
Looking north from the top of the North Gully.  Ga...
BETA PHOTO: Looking north from the top of the North Gully. Ga...
Howe Sound Brewing Best Bitter to commemorate the ...
Howe Sound Brewing Best Bitter to commemorate the ...

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