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The Chick Magnet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: (TR) Karoosh and partner, First lead: Todd Gordon, Rhesa Ashbachar
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: toddgordon on Apr 27, 2010
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Rhesa Ashbacher on The Chick Magnet

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Description 

This is the left of two sport routes on this formation. It has an easy start, past one bolt, then goes up steep rock to the top past 4 more bolts to an anchor.


Location 

This route is located on the largest south-facing cliff as seen from the parking lot. From Rattlesnake parking lot hike across the Rattlesnake Wash, then start hiking up the steep gully to the right of the rock formations. Soon, you can hike to the left and up to your climbs.


Protection 

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (quickdraws only).



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The Chick Magnet (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: The Chick Magnet (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Starts down low in a pit and climbs up a ramp to reach a ledge and the start of the difficulties. The crux comes past the first bolt but stays continuous with interesting movement on mostly good edges. Sustained and difficult for the grade.

An easy downclimb exists down slabs to the climber's right.

By rockcarl
From: Orange County, CA
Nov 29, 2013

Good fun climbing, continuous 5.9 once you get off the little starting ramp. Two bolt anchor at the top, one bolt has a rap ring.