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This formation has several sport style routes and a couple crack routes. The rock is typical middle of the road Josh - grit mixed with patches of varnish. The routes tend to face south and slightly east, so, morning sun and afternoon shade. No mega classics here, the routes are decent, however the setting is spectacular with hauntingly spacious views to the south and an incredible view of the Lost Pencil from the top. If you want to experience the vastness of this little planet, and not see any crowds, this is the place.
Drive south on Geology Tour Road until even with the Lost Pencil (3rd turnout ?). Park and hike west and south around the edges of the closer formations (past Slashface (V3), a classic "slab" boulder problem) until you see that the Lost Pencil is near. Veer slightly south until you see the clump which has a cluster of boulders facing you which resemble a poor man's Atom Smashers Area. There is a tiny bolted route on the arete of one of the boulders, this is Winn-Dixie 5.10a/b, 2 bolts. The other routes are up the hill from here, facing south.
4 Total Routes
Featured Route For The Cheyenne Social Club
This route starts in a slightly overhanging crack with a bolt to clip right off the ground. Grab the Little Man (a flake) and pull into the crack. Be gentle with the little guy as he is loose. Climb the crack over a bulge and climb the fun lieback flake above. The descent is a little tricky (start by dropping off towards the Pencil) but no "convenience" anchor is necessary....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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