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North Nostril Cave
Select Route:
Cheat, The 
Tastes Like Burning 
Trogdor 

The Cheat 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ R

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Charles Fryberger, 07-2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on Jan 1, 2002
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Jay with his harder-than-it-needs-to-be-but-cool-l...
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Description 

"The Cheat" begins on the far right side of the "Nostril Cave" on two pretty decent holds and moves up and right to the lip following somewhat good holds using a few heel hooks, drop-knees, and cross-throughs, as well as a hideous gaston/pinch in the toughest portion and a scarey top-out to boot.

See the "Nostril Cave" directions and photos for accessing this particular problem, and look to the beta photo for the top-out location.


Protection 

Pad and a spotter.



Photos of The Cheat Slideshow Add Photo
Greg took this picture.  My brother, Rob, and  <br />Nathan Renner are spotting.  You can see  <br />from this photo that I didn't use the "hidden"  <br />undercling.  From the "under the roof" crimp  <br />(left hand), I went right to the first roof crimp  <br />then bumped to the second (right hand).  I  <br />heel-hooked out left in a shallow scoop;  <br />moved my left hand to the first roof crimp  <br />then gunned for the top.  This is such a good  <br />route.
Greg took this picture. My brother, Rob, and
Nat...
Sticking the last move
Sticking the last move
"Nostril Cave" as seen from the Eastern side of the cave on the Northwestern side of Mt. Baldy.
BETA PHOTO: "Nostril Cave" as seen from the Eastern side of th...
In my girlfriends SDSMT hoodie
In my girlfriends SDSMT hoodie
Shannon enjoying the cheat
Shannon enjoying the cheat
The Cheat
The Cheat
Matt, on the Cheat.
Matt, on the Cheat.
Chase Gardner matching on the Cheat.
Chase Gardner matching on the Cheat.
Crux.  Great problem.  Photo: Satermo.
Crux. Great problem. Photo: Satermo.
Comments on The Cheat Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Asscherick
Dec 31, 2003

Good route. Could take a sit down start, though it probably wouldn't add a grade's worth of difiiculty. Currently V7. Flashed it. Didn't use the "hidden" undercling. I didn't see it until after I had done it. Greg found it after my ascent. His sequence uses it. Enjoyed this alot. Committing last move to the lip. I topped-out straight over; didn't go out right. I think the line is cleaner straight over. Fun. Another good route from the CO crew.

By Greg Parker
Administrator
Jan 1, 2004

I echo Dave's comments (however, I don't think it should have a sit start). Very good problem. I ended up not using the undercling either, heelhooking and bumping up and right felt like the way. I topped out up and right on the big jug flake thing. Excellent!

By ferris
Mar 6, 2011

I thought the cheat was supposed to be a sit start I did it years ago with a sit start.

By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Mar 6, 2011
rating: V7 7A+

I had also thought it was meant to be a sit down. If not it should be. It adds a few more fun moves but does not change the grade, just solidfies it at V7.

Oh, and I don't know about the R rating... It's not all that tall and as long as you have pads covering the slab chance of injury is slim.

By Mike Housiaux
Administrator
From: Rapid City
Mar 31, 2014

There is a sit that starts down LOW on good chalked holds. The Chester Moves right on good holds into The Cheat ( V7). Also, If you don't get the small crimps at the end prepare for a body slam of massive proportions. :)