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 ADVANCED
Parkline Slab
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L to R R to L Alpha
Eye of the Beholder 
Back for More 
Bombay Bitch 
Bring in the Fembots 
Caribbean Cruise 
Center Route 
Chase, The 
Clowns to the left 
Color Me Gone (P1) 
Cool Cliff 170 
Costa Rica (p1) 
Crossover 
Dangling Chads 
Farm Alarm 
Fly By 
Flying In The Mountains 
Free For All  
Hawaiian , The 
Hayley Anna 
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Moss Madness 
P-Line Express 
Rough Arond the Edges Direct 
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Saved By Zero 
Sawyer Crack 
Secret Agent Dward 
Side Tracked 
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) 
Soft in the Middle 
Soloist, The 
Stonequest 
Too High 
Tweet This 
Unchaste, The 
Unnamed Skelton route 
Whorny Toad 
Woody Woodpecker 
Wretched in Stone 
Unsorted Routes:

The Chase 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Caunt, Eric Mayo, late 1980s
Page Views: 637
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010
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Description 

Nice enjoyable face climbing with some friction but mostly nice, clean, and often big, edges. Although bolted this climb is no sport route. A fall getting to the 3rd bolt will put you close or on the ground. Best let your partner lead this one! This climb gets an R rating although A FALL GETTING TO THE 3RD BOLT COULD KILL YOU!


Location 

This route is on Parkline Pinnacle 30' right of Stone Quest


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (ALL BOLTS ARE NOW 3/4" INCLUDING THE ANCHOR) (THANK ASCA)



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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 28, 2011

FA: Dave Caunt and Eric Mayo, late 1980's (Rock Climbing: Yosemite Free Climbing, Reid 1994)

Great climb, deserves the R rating.

The nature of the climb seems changed by the semi-squeezejob bolted line that has gone in on the left of it. If the leader gets too wigged out on The Chase, in certain point of the climb it's now simple to make a few moves left and clip, clip, clip. Not the case when The Chase was first put up, I imagine, when casting off on lead meant committing.

That said, we climbed the climb to the left and thought it was super fun.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 28, 2011

I think the "squeeze job" comment is unwarranted. The route to the right of the Chase (The Unchaste) is quite a ways to the right and the route to the left is simply a direct start (called Free For All) to the Center Route which went up in 1970. The Unchaste in particular is quite a ways to the right and in no way squeezes The Chase. In fact, if the closeness of The Unchaste to The Chase qualifies it as squeeze job, then by that definition, Stonequest is surely "squeezing" the Center Route. IMHO, the Unchaste is a superior route to the Chase; I think the FA's did a fine job of scoping the line and bolting the route in way that keeps with the established ethics at Parkline.

EDIT: Sirius, my apologies if my post came across as rude. I just think one needs to be careful when throwing around terms like "squeeze job" because it can surely be interpreted as slanderous towards the FA. And in this case, given that the FA's have done a lot of development and hardware up keep at P-Line, I think they deserve the benefit of the doubt. Cheers man.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 28, 2011

J. Albers, woops! I must have been editing my comment at the same moment that you were posting yours. Timestamps. I agree with much of what you've written, but not all of it.

To clarify for other readers: Before editing my comment, I had written that The Chase was squeezed on both the right and the left by newish looking lines. I thought more about that and changed what I'd written - before seeing J. Albers' comment - because it really isn't squeezed on the right. The climb that goes up the blunt arete on the right is well clear of The Chase. I still feel that the line of bolts to the left changes the mental aspect of leading The Chase, in particular the heady climbing between the ground and the fourth bolt.

I also added to my original comment that we climbed the newish line left of The Chase, and really enjoyed it. The blunt arete to the right was also a blast, though we only toproped that one from The Chase's anchors. Not my intention to criticize the FA of the newer lines, or to sound like an asshole.