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The Charlatan is the first major formation past the Magician. It sits directly above the Sorcerer. It is perhaps most famous for two routes -- one that ascends the strange blocky formation on the summit (Our Lady of the Needles), and another called Spooky which takes off from the Witch-Charlatan saddle (Spooky can also be accessed by hiking up to the summit and rapping in from anchor bolts). Fancy Free (5.10+) is another classic climb up obvious cracks on the east face of the Charlatan.
Once you pass the Magician, the trail will take you past the northen end of the Charlatan. The summit is an easy detour up a small trail, and climbs on either side can be accessed from the main trail as well.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Charlatan:
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Spooky 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
The Valley Guy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Fancy Free 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches
Gemstone 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Bad Fortune 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For The Charlatan
Spooky 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Charlatan
Spooky is Marge's cat. It is also a great "end-of-the day climb" - especially after rapping off of the Sorcerer as it begins from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch.P1: Climb up a fairly easy slab/face on the SW corner of the Charlatan to an obvious ledge below a right-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Belay here, or, if you runner your gear well, continue on. P2: Ascend the OW (crux), and then continue more easily up the face and ribs of rock above. Belay at bolts on the summit. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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