The Changling 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Beatty & Woodruff - 1979 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007 |
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Topping out on the Changling
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Description Possibly the best route on the wall! Begin 10 meters right of Conn's East Direct and climb a thin, right-facing, right-arching flake until it ends. Bust some cruxy moves up past the flake to the first of two bolts. Continue up thin face climbing and a seam to a roof which can be breached to the left.
Protection Standard rack.
Careful on the start
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Almost to the roof after the seemingly never endin...
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| Comments on The Changling |
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By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Mar 14, 2009
| Actually, it's a bit to the right of Conn's East regular start, not the direct start. Conn's East Direct is way farther up Broadway, near Pollux. |
By Nate R
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| Got all the moves on toprope the other day (dammit I should have jumped on on lead, oh well.) Since I was toproping, I went right around the roof, which turns into about 20 feet of face climbing that gets REALLY thin right at the end.
Anybody ever go that way? Could be a cool variation, you could probably slam in a bolt from stance up there (it'd be freaky without it). |
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| Best route on the wall. Do not do in direct sunlight and bring micronuts ... used them in several places :) |
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