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Topping out on the Changling
Possibly the best route on the wall! Begin 10 meters right of Conn's East Direct and climb a thin, right-facing, right-arching flake until it ends. Bust some cruxy moves up past the flake to the first of two bolts. Continue up thin face climbing and a seam to a roof which can be breached to the left.
Careful on the start
Almost to the roof after the seemingly never endin...
|Comments on The Changling
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: Wells, Me
Mar 14, 2009
Actually, it's a bit to the right of Conn's East regular start, not the direct start. Conn's East Direct is way farther up Broadway, near Pollux.
|By Nate R|
Sep 19, 2011
Got all the moves on toprope the other day (dammit I should have jumped on on lead, oh well.) Since I was toproping, I went right around the roof, which turns into about 20 feet of face climbing that gets REALLY thin right at the end.
Anybody ever go that way? Could be a cool variation, you could probably slam in a bolt from stance up there (it'd be freaky without it).
|By A Terray|
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 23, 2011
Best route on the wall. Do not do in direct sunlight and bring micronuts ... used them in several places :)