Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper Broadway
Select Route:
Alcoa Presents 
Castor 
Changling, The 
Conn's East 
Conn's East Direct 
Conn's East Lieback Variation 
Dirty Old Man 
Discontent 
Frosted Flake 
Grand Finale 
Hidden Assets 
High Test 
Low Octane 
Nip and Tuck 
Orangeaid 
Pollux 
Soler 
Spock's Brain 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues 
Time Flies 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall 
Vision, The 
Windy Corner 

The Changling 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Beatty & Woodruff - 1979
Page Views: 1,765
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Topping out on the Changling

Description 

Possibly the best route on the wall! Begin 10 meters right of Conn's East Direct and climb a thin, right-facing, right-arching flake until it ends. Bust some cruxy moves up past the flake to the first of two bolts. Continue up thin face climbing and a seam to a roof which can be breached to the left.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of The Changling Slideshow Add Photo
Careful on the start
Careful on the start
Almost to the roof after the seemingly never ending crux.
Almost to the roof after the seemingly never endin...
Comments on The Changling Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
Mar 14, 2009

Actually, it's a bit to the right of Conn's East regular start, not the direct start. Conn's East Direct is way farther up Broadway, near Pollux.

By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Got all the moves on toprope the other day (dammit I should have jumped on on lead, oh well.) Since I was toproping, I went right around the roof, which turns into about 20 feet of face climbing that gets REALLY thin right at the end.

Anybody ever go that way? Could be a cool variation, you could probably slam in a bolt from stance up there (it'd be freaky without it).

By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Best route on the wall. Do not do in direct sunlight and bring micronuts ... used them in several places :)