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Routes in Main Wall
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Black Primo T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Blue Moon T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casual Route T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Chameleon, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Cheeseburger in Paradise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Comes a Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crescent Loon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cross, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dingomaniaque S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dr. Gizmo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Emotional Rescue T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Feeling Edgy T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Garden of Earthly Delights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hidden Secrets T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Honey Pot Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horse Chaser T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Horse Play T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hot Wee Wee T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Just Another 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lowe/Kudo T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Morning Glory T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Opharian Complex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Panda Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Post Office Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rainbow Warrior S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Reckoner T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sailing Shoes T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Savelli Express T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smokin’ Toasters T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Toetally aka Shoe Recall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Total Recall S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Trout-Jamieson T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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White Salamander S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Y Not Continue? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Y-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | John Weinberg & James Stover |
| Page Views: | 1,449 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Christian Prellwitz on Aug 21, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This fierce little line offers up great rock quality, technical and bouldery movement, some unique beta and a spicy run out to the anchor over a tiny, and somewhat dubious, cam placement. It is a good choice for boulderers!
Start standing to the right of the first bolt (stick clipping is highly recommended), near the start of 'White Salamander'. Move left on sidepulls to reach a good incut near the first bolt. From here, head upwards on an amazing sequence of edges, crimps, gastons, and sidepulls until reaching a large incut, a bit above the 3rd bolt. From here, angle left to gain the arete, and follow this to the two bolt anchor.
After the third bolt, the difficulties ease, but the commitment factor increases. A marginally placed small cam or two may provide a slight increase in confidence. Or you can just ignore the risk and punch it straight for the chains. If you decide not to place a cam or if the cam doesn't hold, there is groundfall potential, especially if you fall near the anchor.
Start standing to the right of the first bolt (stick clipping is highly recommended), near the start of 'White Salamander'. Move left on sidepulls to reach a good incut near the first bolt. From here, head upwards on an amazing sequence of edges, crimps, gastons, and sidepulls until reaching a large incut, a bit above the 3rd bolt. From here, angle left to gain the arete, and follow this to the two bolt anchor.
After the third bolt, the difficulties ease, but the commitment factor increases. A marginally placed small cam or two may provide a slight increase in confidence. Or you can just ignore the risk and punch it straight for the chains. If you decide not to place a cam or if the cam doesn't hold, there is groundfall potential, especially if you fall near the anchor.
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