|1,297 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.12b [details]|
|FA: ||(TR) John Bachar & Mike Lechlinksi, December 1979, FL: Dave Mayville & Paul Borne, 1989|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008|
Bolts to the right of Illusion Dweller
This amazing line takes the second line of bolts off the ground to the right of Illusion Dweller (the first being old 1/4 inch bolts from an .11d). Tricky and challenging face climbing past five bolts constitutes the technical crux, while the mental crux is 30 feet of unprotected, gritty, flared 5.10+ crack that arches left to join Illusion Dweller before its crux. Shares the Illusion Dweller rappel anchor. A fall from near the end of the crack section would probably prove to be injurious; take heed and place available protection carefully. Someone must follow to clean; descend as for Illusion Dweller WITH AT LEAST A 60M ROPE.
Approach as for Illusion Dweller; The Chameleon is about 35-40 feet to the right and starts from the ground.
Bolts and gear to 2 inches, including small to medium cams (although larger gear may possibly work). Long slings (especially under the Illusion Dweller roof) will be useful to reduce drag from the traverse.
|Comments on The Chameleon
|By Brad G|
From: Yosemite and else where
Nov 29, 2010
I got through both the crux and the R section and fell on the flaring 10+ crack. I found that section to be real sandbagged so just a heads up. Fortunately that section protects well with a Green-yellow offset alien and both a .75 and 2 camolot.
Jun 2, 2011
Albeit I attempted this on TR I would have to agree with Brad's statement. I only took one run on this route but was able to make the entire route clean until the "10+ flaring crack" this section is pump-tastic and requires a lot of brute strength. The lower section of this route which constitutes the technical crux is comprised of a stellar mix of power and techy balancy moves. The upper section with the 10+ crack is what I would consider the physical enduro crux. Definitely pre run this one on TR! Leading this route would be very proud as the gear is sparse and you would be looking at some serious air time. Amazing route overall.
Dec 20, 2011
I don't know what I was smoking when I led this one. I didn't protect the flared crack for 30 feet (and, of course, the sort of funky section after the bolts end) but after a less fruitful trip up the neighboring Centipede I know that it protects well until the last 10 feet. Obviously I didn't fall or I would have been in a bit of a quandary. The vagaries of youth, I say!
|By Josh Harding|
From: Joshua Tree, California
Sep 29, 2012
Great route, don't agree with "R" rating. Yes, I TRed first, as recommended by Muff. The climb protects easily. I got two bomber pieces in the "R" section and another 7 pieces of bomber gear in the crack portion. Safe great climb.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Victorville, CA
Mar 11, 2013
I agree with Muff and Drewsky. Very proud lead as the gear looks horrible/non-existent in that upper flaring crack, which felt .11'ish to me. Hats off to you who led this thing. Burly. I TR'd the Centipede and thought the shared flaring crack finish was the scariest part from a leading/protection perspective. As far as Josh H's, comment, I would love to follow you on this some time so I could see your gear beta!