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 ADVANCED
The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 

The Chamber of Secrets 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo, Jason Fico
Page Views: 2,576
Submitted By: John Wilder on Apr 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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The exit from the clean dihedral on Chamber of Sec...

Description 

Larry DeAngelo really found a gem when he began developing the Rad Cliff, which lies to the climbers right as he/she is descending from Frogland. The Cadillac Crack is the most obvious climb from the descent and marks the beginning of the cliff.

The Chamber of Secrets can be found by following the cliff to a huge, low-angle, right leaning offwidth/chimney crack. Just to the right of this is the start of the route.

Pitch 1: Head up the gully to the base of the chimney. Ascend the vertical chimney to a nice ledge with good pro. 5.6, 100'

Pitch 2: After a somewhat interesting start (crux), one of the best handcracks in all of Red Rock appears, which is followed until you can step left onto a ledge. Walk 5' left and belay near a tree. 5.7+, 100'

Descent: Downclimb about 5' to a rappel station and rap once with two ropes. This amazing rappel takes you down Larry's testpiece- the Dementor.


Protection 

A standard rack does well here, a second #2 camalot or equivalent would help for the second pitch.



Photos of The Chamber of Secrets Slideshow Add Photo
The Chamber of Secrets
BETA PHOTO: The Chamber of Secrets
Jamming higher on Chamber of Secrets
Jamming higher on Chamber of Secrets
Starting the upper corner on Chamber of Secrets
Starting the upper corner on Chamber of Secrets
Comments on The Chamber of Secrets Add Comment
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By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route was a real disappointment. Grungy cracks filled with scrub oak leaves, an uninspiring setting, and an underwhelming visual line add up to the question: why bother? But go ahead, see for yourself. Maybe you'll like it. Others certainly have.

By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

OK, OK, my first comment came after a 'mixed' day on this crag. Second visit, well, it's better than the above would indicate.
What happened to all the oak leaves? Clearly our first climb had some bad luck, maybe a big wind dumped the leaves all over the crag --- not really sure how to evaluate the conditions but I've gotta relent and say this is a worthy route. Don't get sucked out right of the crack/corner, as slings indicate has happened to at least one party.
And don't write a surly review, as I did, on a single encounter. It deserves better.

By Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We climbed this as one long pitch. The upper hand crack is EXCELLENT. If the climb consisted of that for the entire pitch, it would be a red rocks classic. Unfortunately, there's some pretty definite adventure climbing for the first 100' to get to it.

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We did the route as one long pitch and liked it. While the handcrack at the top was the best part, I found a couple "situations" getting to it to also be engaging. Doubles of #2 and #3 cams were very useful.

By Canon
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Does not look like much from the ground, but once you get up in it you'll realize how it got its name. Second pitch has a good hand crack. 2 #2s and a #3 would sew it up.