The Central Wall Rock Climbing
Myself walking past the central wall.Photo by my w...
The Central Wall is a great area with full length climbs ranging from 5.10 to 5.12, some well over 400ft in length. Most routes climb corners and crack systems.
The classic in this area is Intimidation (5.10b), a killer climb that lives up to its name. The other "classic" is Repentance (5.10b R) which is a full-length chimney that is mossy wet and poorly protected in parts. I think it sounds fun. The wall from the bottom looks intimidating and hard to crack. Many climbs start up the first pitch of Intimidation and break off to become classic routes of their own. Even the sweetest climbs here don't see much traffic, so they can get a little dirty, but you can do your part by climbing them and that will help clean them off.
Climb to the top and walk off. You may also rap the cliff with double ropes from the anchor to the right of the finish of Intimidation (5.10b).
This section is marked by the Cathedral Cave on its left and the obvious chimney of Repentance is near the right hand border though it goes a little further.
From the road, follow a trail (not well-marked) to the cave and head right.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Central Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Central Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Central Wall:
Antline 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Intimidation 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
R Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Abrakadabra 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Featured Route For The Central Wall