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The Central Wall

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White Eye, pitch 1 

The Central Wall 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007
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Description 

The Central Wall is a great area with full length climbs ranging from 5.10 to 5.12, some well over 400ft in length. Most routes climb corners and crack systems.

The classic in this area is Intimidation (5.10b), a killer climb that lives up to its name. The other "classic" is Repentance (5.10b R) which is a full-length chimney that is mossy wet and poorly protected in parts. I think it sounds fun. The wall from the bottom looks intimidating and hard to crack. Many climbs start up the first pitch of Intimidation and break off to become classic routes of their own. Even the sweetest climbs here don't see much traffic, so they can get a little dirty, but you can do your part by climbing them and that will help clean them off.

Climb to the top and walk off. You may also rap the cliff with double ropes from the anchor to the right of the finish of Intimidation (5.10b).


Getting There 

This section is marked by the Cathedral Cave on its left and the obvious chimney of Repentance is near the right hand border though it goes a little further.

From the road, follow a trail (not well-marked) to the cave and head right.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Central Wall:
Antline   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad   
Intimidation   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Abrakadabra   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Angel's Freeway   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
White Eye, pitch 1   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in The Central Wall

Featured Route For The Central Wall
Alexa committing to the second crux on Pitch 1.

Intimidation 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall
This route is Killer!!! Intimidation is a full-length route up an intimidating wall and none of the pitches will let you down. This is one of the best multi-pitch 5.10s in NH.The moderate climbing between the cruxes can be a bit run out, and though the hard parts can be scary, they are protected well enough (maybe PG13). The only real R rated climbing is the second pitch traverse and it goes at 5.8.Pitch one: (5.10b) Start up the moderate ramp system heading toward the corner/crack. Sling two nu...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

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