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Slide Rock State Park
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Center of Singularity, The S 
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The Center of Singularity 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Rodney Blakemore (aka "Rodman") et al, 2003
Page Views: 6,973
Submitted By: climnron on Oct 4, 2006

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Ronnie Miller on Center of Singularity.

Description 

The climb ascends the left side of the arch to its apex, then heads up to the anchor. Delicate moves to start and then long powerful moves on good holds. Finish on a short crack in the left dihedral.

Location 

Park at the south end of the Park and head west to a trail. Head south past the apple field and then up to the visible arch.

Protection 

8 bolts and a #1 Camalot.


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Comments on The Center of Singularity Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 11, 2006

FA Rodman
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jun 10, 2008

Dennis?
By Braxtron
From: ...
Oct 12, 2008

As of yesterday there's no trail, so wearing body armor & yielding 2 machetes is recommended. There's a faint road that leads from the southern-most ramada (the trail?) that will take you past a hydrant to the apple trees, but then it's bushwhacking through dense thorn bushes, no matter which way you go. IMO, it's easier to take the service road at the south end of the parking lot, then start heading up to the arch somewhere among the apple trees. Don't go past the arch! There's less bushwhacking if you stay to the north (the parking lot side).

Also... this route is on the north-side of the formation. There's sun to warm up in, under the arch, but only until mid-afternoon (in October).
By climnron
Oct 13, 2008

There is a trail. It is just faint and difficult to find on the way up on your first trip. We tried to put a lot of cairns on it a couple of years ago after the fire, but the heavy monsoon this year may have washed sections out or increased the underbrush in the spots that did not burn. It starts near the water pump piping.
By MisterE
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 12, 2010

First Ascent Rodney Blakemore (aka "Rodman") et al, 2003
By RyanJames
May 24, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This route is very, very nice.
By Andrew Hunzicker
May 6, 2014

just hiked up today/ only takes 15 minutes and what a special/amazing place! hike down service road and into apple orchard. walk to end of orchard and there is a green chain link fence and trail starts right at edge of that. work up and right of first slab. Very minor bushwacking and pretty easy to get up there.
By Cole Keesler
From: Glendale, AZ
May 8, 2016

I went on a recon mission to find this route yesterday and I found the current directions on this page and in previous comments to be less than ideal if you have never been in the area before. There are two apple orchards close to the parking lot of slide rock park. There is one north of the parking lot along the river that attracts a ton of tourists on the weekends and there is one south of the parking lot. The one that's important is the south one. From the parking lot you have to walk down a gravel service road right past a couple of No Trespassing signs to gain access to the south orchard. From this point the Arch is visible. I got stopped by a park ranger who kindly pointed out the signs for me. I told him I really wanted to take a photo of the arch. He was pretty friendly and looked the other way because he was convinced I had no intention of climbing the arch. He went on to give me the history behind the bolts. Said it was done illegally and a lot of people were upset by it. And all park staff have been told to stop anyone trying to access the arch from the park property. Sooo apparently access to this climb is a little sketchy right now. Anyone have more detailed info??
By RyanJames
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

DO NOT walk down the gravel service road past the "No Trespassing" signage! If the rangers keep seeing climbers going up there, they will definitely monitor it more. Instead, park at the far south end of the southern parking lot and take the very small overgrown utility/forest road from the southwest end of the southern parking lot (it's on the uphill side of the parking lot), and be quick. From the parking lot, it's about a 100-foot walk into the brush and trees to where the rangers can't see. Keep going down this overgrown utility road, past the orchards, which will be on your left) until you near the slabs, then hike uphill. Don't be seen. Don't wear bright colors, and don't scream and yell when you whip at the multiple cruxes. It would be shame for the park to crack down on this climb.

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