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"The outside (west) edge of the tooth holds a frightening aid line." as quoted from Bernard Gillett in his guide to RMNP. Well said... what made Bob Bradley climb this line in 1963!? I dunno.
Other than one old fixed head, the Cavity goes clean. The first 30ft presents the crux, and after that, it's all C1 to the top.
P1. C3+. make some hairy moves off the ground and clip the old head. Continue upward on thin aid until the base of the upper crack is reached. Make a move or two through rotten-ass rock until things get better and C1 it to the top of the tooth. 140ft.
P2. 5.9 or 5.7 go to the top via p.2 of Wolf's Tooth.
Standard clean aid rack inc. doubles from #00 TCU/Aliens to #4 Camalot. Extra thin stuff for the crux- RPs, HBs, micro nuts, two #1 Lowe balls, smallest 2cam, hooks and beaks.
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Jan 1, 2004
Damn it hemmes!! You stole this one from me!! Good show though...I always thought it would go.
From: city, state
Jan 1, 2004
Clean? WOW, nice work Senor Paco.
You haul a crash pad up there?
Jan 2, 2004
I didn't haul the crash pad up there... but that's not a bad idea.
Note to soloists: bring two #4 Camalots and one #5 for the anchor under the tooth.