Type: Trad
FA: Doug Snively (likely in the '70s or early '80s)
Page Views: 1,044 total · 4/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a one-pitch route that may be used to start Femp or J-Crack. This old-school climb is the business for 5.10-solid leaders at the grade should jump on it! Begin right of J-Crack (but before Femp) below a huge, round crystalline hole in the cliff, which harbors a large tree. Clamber up into the hole and pull crystals up into a left-facing corner. Ascend that (the crux) via sustained laybacking, lacking any noticable stances for placing gear. Belay on a ledge. It is possible to traverse right from here and downclimb the first pitch of Femp or rappel off of a dubious tree, but this is annoying and somewhat scary--best to continue up one of the fine routes above.

Protection Suggest change

It requires mainly very small gear, and a #3.5 Friend fits the flare near the top.

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