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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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A Flake Called Lee 
Cave Route, The 
For Short People Only 
Go Ballistic 
I Am a Cam 
In Your Head 
Rhythm Roof 
Seven Wishes 
Unsorted Routes:

The Cave Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, wet in the Winter
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: A. Lombardi on Feb 10, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Squeezing out of the top!
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  • Description 

    The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch.


    Sugarloaf Mt, Middle Earth area, directly to the right of the 5.6 Seven Wishes.


    Not much gear required at all. Great tree trunk anchor at the top of the cave. Thats it!

    Photos of The Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Base of The Cave Route
    Base of The Cave Route
    Little dark up there <br />
    Little dark up there
    Tree anchor
    Tree anchor
    Comments on The Cave Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By DennisL
    Apr 22, 2013

    No need to rope up - just squirm and squeeze your way up the cave!

    By Bob Ewing
    From: Arlington
    Nov 24, 2013

    I like this climb, though my partner today hated it. There's a couple spots to place pro, including a nice #3 cam towards the beginning. After about 15 feet in you don't really need pro because it's so tight. And it does get tight!