By climberboy2 Nov 7, 2006 rating: 5.12b/c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
This route is hard! It's the hardest route I've completed; roughly 12c. I TR'd the route twice after my partner Jason climbed the nearby 10b to drop the toprope. Despite a couple no-hands rests, the route is very sustained with hard 11 and easy 12 over and over throughout the route. The crux is definitely the little headwall midway up the route. Here a dyno is made off two sharp crimps and undercut feet...very tough. This route left my finger cut and bleeding. Once you power through the dyno, you're still left with lots of scary crimpers and edges above before reaching the anchors.
I'll be going back soon to try the lead!
By climberboy2 Nov 18, 2006 rating: 5.12b/c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
I got on the sharp end today! Finished the lead today, but didn't get it clean yet, still fell at the crux...but I'll be back for the redpoint soon.