The Cat Ate My Homework 5.10d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Tina and Dan Godshall |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Dan G0D5H411 on Mar 9, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Tina on the FA.
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Description Scramble up to a bolt on the right and start trending left towards the midway ledge. Trust your feet or crank hard over the bulge to gain the upper crack. Afterwards the occasional stem or jam on steep rock will deposit you at the chain anchors on top.
Location First bolted route to the left of Power Broker. Follow sidepulls and flakes to a seam that splits the steeper headwall.
Protection 6 bolts to chain anchors.
The first moves off the ledge are "tricky" at the ...
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Hope you stretched first....
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| Comments on The Cat Ate My Homework |
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 12, 2010
| IMO the crux section isn't bolted very well. Unless you're very tall and can clip the 5th bolt from the ledge, it's a pumpy clip in the middle of the hard stuff.
Personally I think the 4th bolt should be removed and the 5th bolt moved down about 18 inches. Despite that, I enjoyed this route very much, too bad it's not taller. |
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 26, 2010
| Thanks for the comment, Doug. We went back out and did the route a couple more times. In the end, we agreed that the crux bolt was too low, so we removed it and placed it 8-10 inches higher. We also moved the following bolt 10 inches higher. It is now a good clip from secure holds and two decent edges for your feet. Hope it helps and glad you had fun on the climb! |
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