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 ADVANCED
Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block, The T 
Castrum, The T 
Chessboard, The T 
Coco-Loco T 
Court Jester T 
Coyote In the Bushes T 
Crown Jewels T 
Drawbridge, The TR 
Duchess T 
Duchess Left T 
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 
Duchess Right T 
La Reina T 
Marchesa T 
Monaco S 
Not Just another Pretty Face T 
Paper or Plastic? T 
Pocket Pool S 
Route 1326 T 
Scaramouch T 
Swishbah T 

The Castrum 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Boone 1978, FFA: John Long & Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 1,057
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: "The Castrum".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Fun climb -- thin edges and smears to fingertip lieback moves near the top. A great opportunity to get familiar with JTree friction on an easily TR'd climb. Also a great climb to break into the 5.10 range and boost that ego! Popular.

Protection 

Thin (small nuts, cams to 1" at the biggest)and difficult to protect. Easily TR'd with some long slings.


Photos of The Castrum Slideshow Add Photo
Finding out if the pro is really that bad
Finding out if the pro is really that bad
Making a valiant attempt
Making a valiant attempt
Becca jams it up.
Becca jams it up.
"The Castrum". <br />Photo by Blitzo. <br />
"The Castrum".
Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on The Castrum Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 16, 2011
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 8, 2003

The guide is incorrect. The route shown as 'The Castrum' is actually Duchess (5.6-5.7? mixed pockets and a off again on again flaring crack). Castrum is the thin finger crack/face just to the right of #4. If you look carefully, you can see the chalk in the crack on the upper section.

Fun thin route, but definitely hard to protect and thin. Don't forget the aliens!
By Woody Stark
Nov 21, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I've led this route twice in the last year, and I disagree with the rating. I'd give it at least 10b instead of an a. It's a sweet, little route that requires a bit more attention to pro placement than usual. It should also be given a star--maybe two.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 23, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A nice climb...all 20' of it! This climb offers a few good moves but is over far too quickly to stick in your long term memory.
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 23, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yeah this is a short route, but I like to climb it at least once a season. I feel that the 10a rating is on.
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 21, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I done this route three times, and I agree it's short, but it is fun.
By Caroline
Dec 5, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The pro is actually fine if you have green and yellow aliens and are willing to place nuts.
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Fun route!
By tony grice
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

short and sweet. 10b is fair.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 9, 2008

This route actually protects really well with stoppers and TCUs or the equivalent. Given that, it'd be a shame to toprope it, which seems to be the norm for many these days.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I think there is 1 hard move on this line more difficult than 10a.
By P Eger
Nov 16, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a



Short but very fun combination of smearing, crimping, liebacking and jamming. All in 20 feet or so =)
By Bryan Davenport
From: 29palms
Apr 16, 2011

Slick in the heat/sun, but climbed alright. Used the Manaco bolts since we didn't mind the swing.