The Castrum 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Jim Boone 1978, FFA: John Long & Keith Cunning, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | Brian Reynolds on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Making a valiant attempt
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Description Fun climb -- thin edges and smears to fingertip lieback moves near the top. A great opportunity to get familiar with JTree friction on an easily TR'd climb. Also a great climb to break into the 5.10 range and boost that ego! Popular.
Protection Thin (small nuts, cams to 1" at the biggest)and difficult to protect. Easily TR'd with some long slings.
Finding out if the pro is really that bad
| Becca jams it up.
| BETA PHOTO: "The Castrum". Photo by Blitzo.
| "The Castrum". Photo by Blitzo.
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By Anonymous Coward Jan 8, 2003
| The guide is incorrect. The route shown as 'The Castrum' is actually Duchess (5.6-5.7? mixed pockets and a off again on again flaring crack). Castrum is the thin finger crack/face just to the right of #4. If you look carefully, you can see the chalk in the crack on the upper section. Fun thin route, but definitely hard to protect and thin. Don't forget the aliens! |
By Woody Stark Nov 21, 2003 rating: 5.10b
| I've led this route twice in the last year, and I disagree with the rating. I'd give it at least 10b instead of an a. It's a sweet, little route that requires a bit more attention to pro placement than usual. It should also be given a star--maybe two. |
By C Miller Administrator Nov 23, 2003 rating: 5.9+
| A nice climb...all 20' of it! This climb offers a few good moves but is over far too quickly to stick in your long term memory. |
By Steve Powell From: Alhambra, California Nov 23, 2003 rating: 5.10a
| Yeah this is a short route, but I like to climb it at least once a season. I feel that the 10a rating is on. |
By Steve Powell From: Alhambra, California Nov 21, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| I done this route three times, and I agree it's short, but it is fun. |
By Caroline Dec 5, 2004 rating: 5.10a
| The pro is actually fine if you have green and yellow aliens and are willing to place nuts. |
By Blitzo Sep 8, 2006
| Fun route! |
By tony grice Jan 11, 2007 rating: 5.10b
| short and sweet. 10b is fair. |
By Fat Dad From: Los Angeles, CA Apr 9, 2008
| This route actually protects really well with stoppers and TCUs or the equivalent. Given that, it'd be a shame to toprope it, which seems to be the norm for many these days. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Apr 2, 2009 rating: 5.10b
| I think there is 1 hard move on this line more difficult than 10a. |
By P Eger Nov 16, 2010 rating: 5.10-
| Short but very fun combination of smearing, crimping, liebacking and jamming. All in 20 feet or so =) |
By Bryan Davenport From: 29palms Apr 16, 2011
| Slick in the heat/sun, but climbed alright. Used the Manaco bolts since we didn't mind the swing. |
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