This is an easy but exceptionally fun climb. Follow the obvious flow up to a belay from a tree on the left. The second pitch involves 2 small and steeper ice steps. If there is a lot of water running underneath the ice this climb becomes a bit more difficult.
The route can be spied on the right after you pass the Cascade/Pitchoff hiking trailhead driving from Lake Placid toward Keene. Approach via the picnic area and follow the drainage uphill until the climb becomes visible. Snowshoes or skis usually essential to avoid miserable post-holing.
Descent: The guidebook recommends scrambling down climbers left through cedars, near to the climb Green Gully(3+). You can also go down and right. Either way, keep crampons on and have a tool handy because some spots can be tricky. Rappel with two ropes is also possible.
|By Brian Haugli|
From: Fairfax, VA
Sep 1, 2011
After Irene, this will be much longer of a climb. Can't wait for this season!
Jan 2, 2012
The new slide above the Cascade waterfall has created a mega classic route to the summit in VERY LOW SNOW conditions. Above the waterfall, stay right instead of heading up left into the woods. After walking through a narrow section, aim up and left on ice bulges to gain the beautiful dike (a 8-10 foot wide slot that goes on for 125ft) that leads up to another WI2ish step. Following that step, there is a bit of hiking and then another 150 ft of low angle ice up top. Expect another 20-30 minutes of easy hiking through uncharacteristically open woods to the summit.
|By Ben Brotelho|
From: Albany, NY
Jan 19, 2012
Morgan: When did you do this climb? I am thinking of checking it out tomorrow afternoon while waiting for a partner to meet me in the 'Dacks. I did the climb before Irene, but I'm wondering if the hurricane made it slightly harder, or just more enjoyable?