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Mikey's Island
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East Face T 

The Care Giver 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M. Carnes, Hoeffer, Matt Coffman
New Route: Yes
Season: Year round
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: 1rsties4life on Sep 7, 2011

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M. Carnes on the first ascent.

Description 

Climb into the smoker's den that is formed by the large flake leaning against the wall on the left side of the formation. Start in the obvious hand crack and follow it into the right-facing dihedral above the flake then traverse right at its top into the birthing canal just below the anchor.

Location 

There is an enormous flat rock called "The Beach" that makes the belay for all of the climbs at the Island. Climb behind the enormous flake leaning against the wall off the Northern side of "The Beach."

Protection 

Standard rack, bolted anchor.


Photos of The Care Giver Slideshow Add Photo
Hoeffer belaying inside the womb on the first ascent.
Hoeffer belaying inside the womb on the first asce...

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By s.kimball
May 1, 2012

Give some care passing the blocks at the crux bulge, unique lead, 5.9.
By 1rsties4life
From: CO
Jul 9, 2012

Agreed, that thing may come out at some point, but for now it should be fine. I pulled and pryed on it while on lead and again while lowering back down. It moved but wouldn't come out.... Very perplexing.