Climb into the smoker's den that is formed by the large flake leaning against the wall on the left side of the formation. Start in the obvious hand crack and follow it into the right-facing dihedral above the flake then traverse right at its top into the birthing canal just below the anchor.
There is an enormous flat rock called "The Beach" that makes the belay for all of the climbs at the Island. Climb behind the enormous flake leaning against the wall off the Northern side of "The Beach."
Standard rack, bolted anchor.
Hoeffer belaying inside the womb on the first asce...
May 1, 2012
Give some care passing the blocks at the crux bulge, unique lead, 5.9.
Jul 9, 2012
Agreed, that thing may come out at some point, but for now it should be fine. I pulled and pryed on it while on lead and again while lowering back down. It moved but wouldn't come out.... Very perplexing.