The Captain 

John do you have any pics of these routes on the FA? I would love to see that.

Somewhere. It was a long way in and we already had enough shit with us. it would be an awesome site for photos though, no signs of humanity at all. You can kinda see Greens from up high, people think that's hike ? Ha! The best thing is cool belay ledges too. Like the top of P1 Children's Crusade.

If your looking for an alpine feel in NH this is your cliff. The bushwhacking is completely worth it.

COOL ! In the photos, you can see the Prow up top. It looks awesome and will give very exciting climbing I'm sure ! Maybe a climb up to 5-6 pitches.

is there beta for The Captain in any guidebooks currently in print?

Nope, and i doubt there will be any time soon. It's just to far for most people.

Its not really even that far if you take a bike, I even had a huge haul bag for my gear and it was'nt that much of a pain in the ass. Strand is correct though, the majority of folks wont dig on the 'shwack to the base of the cliff. The best is getting out on a bike, the four miles goes by in about 30 min, wicked fun.

where is the Captain?im interested in going there

I found it on Google. Here are the GPS coordinates: 44.083362,-71.46203

maps.google.com/maps?q=44.083362,-71.46203&hl=en&ll=44.08336>>>

Did a recon trip in with Jack Dorsey recently. Because the Sawyer River Rd. is closed indefinitely, we biked in via the Sawyer River Trail from the Kanc (unfortunately a much longer alternative). From the last big clearing, we hiked straight in, following a trail and white ribbons. At some point, this trail just ended, so we bushwacked down to the stream and eventually made it to the gravel campsite. We then hiked up the slide/streambed which headed up right, then bushwacked left for a bit til we hit the ribboned trail coming up along the stream to the slabs. Very impressive expanse of rock. I'm gonna get to know the approach a lot better before I haul in a lot of gear. Awesome place. Tons of respect for anyone doing FA's in there!
Chuck

thanks chuck. its such a great place to go. it's a remote cliff. did you climb any of the routes out there. Is that your first time out there? if you want we should meet and do some fa's........ how was the ride from the kank?

If you guys are into slabbing, but it is too much of a pain getting into the Captain while the road is out, you should check out Meadow Brook slabs. They are smaller, but looked like very good quality to me when I was exploring around there. Chuck was active there in the past. Meadow Brook Slabs
The one photo there doesn't show much, so don't let it put you off.

When we first went in , around '95 or so, the road was washed out as well, near the house. It's still better than the kanc approach 'cause the road is easy on a bike and so good coming out.
IMO the gully approach the bush left is pretty good -45 from the camp

Great place

Yeah, I prefer Sawyer River Rd. if it's open (which it's not), and biking uphill on the road from 302 may or may not be easier than coming from the Kanc. Our ride was nice and flat and not too far. Anyway, the Forest Service person I talked to about the road said "It's closed- no biking, no hiking up it". Seemed like the Kanc was our only alternative.

went out a couple of weeks ago, road still closed but that didn't stop the chinos. the aproch took about 4 to 5 hrs in. the ride out was super fast....

having the road closed sure makes the way in a lot longer, but blazing down a leaf covered trail with a big pack is a blast