great rock, with some difficult boulder problems at the base and some highball boulder problems/short TR climbs. Huecos line the lower third of the rock and are filled with chalk, making it immediately noticable from the road. For TR: Two nice horns are perfect for two five foot slings. Access to the top is via an easier boulder problem on the north side just off the road. There's a hard-to-see crimper on the slight gully up the rock that makes the problem much easier; above that it's an easy scramble. Watch out for cars.
1.4 miles up Baseline (measured from the fire danger sign) at the hairpin turn. It's hard to miss. You can park on the left side of the road (driving up the road) and park directly underneath.
Browse More Classics in The Capstan
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Capstan:
South Crack V2 X Boulder
Just Right V7 Boulder
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V9 Boulder, 15 feet
West Face [The Capstan] 5.10a TR, 1 pitch
Featured Route For The Capstan
Just Right V7 CO : Boulder : ... : The Capstan
This is a historic Flagstaff testpiece and definitely the most public of Flagstaff's harder problems, sitting only 15 feet from the road.Just Right climbs the overhanging southeast side of Capstan Rock and is above the right edge of the platform facing the road. It features an obvious lunge move to a sloping but well-textured pocket high and right.Originally (and most commonly) done with a cheater stone start that allows you to reach the opposing sidepulls seven feet up, Just Right has also been...[more] Browse More Classics in CO